
Glass T>/id 3Q 
Book M^S SG 



im&il^ibpot* 



THE SURROUNDING SCENERY: 

BEING A 

COMPLETE ITINERARY OF THE LAKES. 

BY G. N. SMITH. 

Embellished with Maps and Views from Original Drawings taken hy hint on 
the spot. 



To which ara added copious Notes, a Catalogue of Plants, and an Etymological 
Index of Irish Names. 

BY G. DOWNES, A- B. 




DUBLIN : 
PRINTED FOR JOHNSTON AND DEAS ; 

JOHN BOLSTER, BOOKSELLER TO HIS MAJESTY, AND S. KING AND CO. 

cork; b. o'brien and g.m'kern, limerick; JOHN BULL, 

WATERrORD J J . HODGESON AND M.JELI ETT, BELFAST. 

1822. 



1. ^3b% 






TO 

The Right Honorable 

CHARLES KENDALL BUSHE 3 

LORD CHIEF JUSTICE 

Of His Majesty's Court of King's Bench. 

MY LORD, 

In the following work I have 
attempted to describe the most beautiful 
and most sublime district of this Island, un- 
der the various effects in which particular 
portions of its scenery appeared to me to 
the greatest advantage; and I have adopt- 
ed a new and, I trust, efficacious method 
for carrying the stranger to the sites se- 
lected. A variety of details are given in 
connection with |he main design, and the 
result of my labours I beg leave to in- 
scribe to vou. 



IV. DEDICATION. 

The distinguished part which your Lord- 
ship has borne for a long period in the 
affairs of Ireland, and the high character 
which by the suffrage of all parties you have 
maintained, entitle yourLordship to the ad- 
miration of your Country ; and as this is 
perhaps the only opportunity I shall ever 
possess of testifying my humble but ar- 
dent applause, I embrace it with the sin- 
cerest satisfaction. 

I have the honor to be, 
My Lord, 
Your Lordship's obedient Servant, 
GEO. NELSON SMITH. 

Limerick, May 1822. 



CONTENTS. 

v 

PAGE. 

Dedication . . . . . . . . . . iii. 

Introduction . . . . . « . . 1 

County of Kerry . . - . . . . . . 5 

Town of Killarney . . . . . . . . 9 

Mails 11 

Roads 12 

Hotels — Inns — Lodgings .. .. 13 

Boats — Boatmen — Guides .. ... 14 

West Domain .. .. .. .. .. 19 

Station 1 .. ' . _ . . . . . . 21 

2 .. 22 

Aghadoe 29 

Round Tower . . . . . . 35 

The Pulpit . . 37 

Denagh Bridge . . . . . . 39 

Danish Fort . • . . . . ib. 

Station 3 40 

Deer- Park 42 

Station 4 43 

5 .. .. .. -.. 44 

Druidical Circle . . . . . . 46 

Violet Hill . . . . ... . . 47 

Station 6 . . • • . . " «, . ib. 



VI CONTENTS. 

PAGE. 

Flesk Bridge 51 

Cahirnane . . . . . . . . . . 52 

Castlelough Bay . . . . . . . . 54 

Station 7 . . . . . . . . ib.. 

Mucruss Abbey . . 58 

Grounds of Mucruss . . . . . . . . 66 

Station 8 68 

The Peninsula . . . . . . . . 71 

Station 9 -. 72 

Brickeen Bridge . . . . . . . . 76 

— Island . . . . . . . . 77 

Station 10 . . . . . . . . ib. 

Green Hills— Station 11 79 

The Demesne of Mucruss . . . . . . 82 

Station 12 ib. 

' 13 ..83 

14 84 

Turk Waterfall 85 

Side of Mangerton . . . . . . . . 87 

Station 15 . . .. . . . . ib. 

Mangerton . . . . . . . . . . 90 

Devil's Punch-Bowl . . . . 91 

Cairn 93 

Station 16 ... . . . . . 95 

Kenmare Road to Killamey . . . . . . 100 

Station 17 . . . . . . ib. 

18 .. 103 

Kenmare House . , . . . . . . 105 



CONTENTS. vil 
PAGE. 

Road from Killarney to Ross . . . . 106 

Station 19 ib. 

Ross Castle 109 

Shores at the Estuary of Flesk River . . 112 

The Arbutus .. .. 114 

The Archipelago .. .. .. . . 117 

Shores of Mucruss .. .. .. . . 119 

Glena Bay . . . . ' 121 

Music 125 

Middle Lake 127 

Station 20 ib. 

Turk Mountain— Station 21 130 

Glena Mountain— Station 22 133 

O' Sullivan's Cascade . . . . . . . . 135 

Lower Part of the Lower Lake . . . . 136 

InnisfalJen . . . . 137 

Abbey of Innisfallen . . . . 138 

Bed of Honour 143 

Station 23 145 

O'Donoghue's Prison .. .. .. .. -146 

Reen Point . . - . . 149 

Station 24 151 

Ross Bay . . 152 

Station 25 153 

Ross Castle (revisited) . . . , ib. 

Station 26 154 

Route to Upper Lake . . .... . . 157 

Macgillicuddy's Reeks , 158 



viil CONTENTS. 

PAGE. 

Greenagh . . . . . . . . '. . ib' 

Station 27 159 

Dunlow Castle . . . . . . . . 160 

Gap of Dunlow . . . . . . . . 163 

Station 28 165 

Upper Lake . . . . . . . . . . 167 

Ronayne's Island - . . . . . . . . ib. 

Station 29 168 

Shores .. .. 172 

Derricanihy Glen . . . . . . . . ib. 

Hyde's Cottage 174 

Station 30 .. ., .. .. 175 

Derricanihy Cascade . . . . ib. 

Cromagloun . . . . . . . . . . 178 

Station 31 . . . . . . . . ib. 

Stag- Hunt 179 

Upper Lake (revisited) . . . . * . 180 

Station 32 ib. 

Newfoundland . . . . . . . . 181 

Coleman's Eye . . . . . . . . ib. 

Eagle's Nest— Station 33 182 

Old Weir Bridge 185 

Dinas Island 186 

Introduction to the Routes . . . . . . 188 

Routes 191 

Mineralogical Appendix, &c. . . r . 202 

Botanical Index . . . . , . . . 207 

Etymological Index of Irish Names . . . . 215 

Directions to the Binder . . . . » . 223 



INTRODUCTION. 



Strangers who visit the justly celebrated scen- 
ery of Killarney, are generally limited in point 
of time, and, from want of any authentic direc- 
tory, are usually conducted along such routes as 
the guides and boatmen have been accustomed to 
pursue, without any reference to the diversity of 
tastes, or previous arrangements of the visitants. 
In consequence of this, they receive nothing more 
than a general impression of the grandeur and 
luxuriance of this enchanting region, and depart 
without retaining in their memory any distinct 
traces of those particular beauties with which 
they had recently been delighted. 

To obviate this inconvenience, is the principal 
design of the following pages. Verbal descrip- 
tion, unaccompanied by graphic delineation, can 



2 Introduction. 

convey but faint ideas of real scenery ; and mere 
drawings, unaided by an illustrative text, must 
be equally insufficient for the direction of the 
tourists. These two essential requisites are com- 
bined in the present publication ; and although, 
in consequence of the expense of providing en- 
gravings, their number is necessarily limited, such 
stations have been chosen, as comprise the ob- 
jects most frequently referred to. 

No former writer on the subject, has adopted 
the same method of arrangement or descrip- 
tion, with that now offered to the reader ; 
which, it is presumed, will be found materially 
useful in abridging the labour to which inquirers 
have been hitherto exposed, in turning over the 
pages of such diffuse, vague, or unconnected ac- 
counts of Killarney, as are already before the 
public. The whole is reduced to such a system 
of classification, as will ensure a continuity of 
walks, rides, or aquatic excursions. 

In order to preserve the closest adherence to 
nature and truth, the account here given is tran- 
scribed, with little variation, from notes taken 



Introduction. 3 

immediately on the spot ; and the single circum- 
stance, that the entire was actually written amid 
the scenery it professes to describe, would jus- 
tify the publishers in pronouncing this to be the 
most accurate, as it is the latest and most ample, 
itinerary of Killarney existing. The minor 
details which occur in the relations of the 
guides have been studiously avoided ; and 
it has been a primary object with the writer, 
to bring into view such features of the scenery, 
as are universally interesting, and calculated 
to affect the mind either by their simplicity, 
their beauty, or their sublimity. 

The Lakes of Killarney are seldom visited for 
scientific purposes, except by those who, being 
already well versed in their favourite pursuit, 
would find it superfluous to consult works of this 
kind, for disquisitions on the various subjects con- 
nected with natural history. As, however, it 
might facilitate the researches of professed col- 
lectors, and at the same time gratify the curiosity 
of the unscientific tourist, to be apprized of the 

leading geological and mineralogical features of 
b2 



4 Introduction. 

the country, an Appendix to that effect has been 
subjoined. The catalogue of rare plants, and 
the etymological index of Irish names, which 
have been also appended, will be found not un- 
acceptable to the botanist and philologist ; while 
care has been taken, throughout the Notes, to 
collect a variety of information, more exclusively 
addressed to such as are attached to the study of 
antiquities, but calculated also to enhance the 
satisfaction of the general traveller, by rendering 
him familiar with objects, which he will encoun- 
ter at every step of his progress through this in- 
teresting island. 



„<..<•'<••«!>*<•'<•'<«•<* 




7/ 41 ^ 



COUNTY OF KERRY. 

As it is intended to avoid as much as possible, 
throughout this work, prolix and uninteresting 
details, and to dilate upon such topics alone as 
may be of practical advantage to the traveller, 
we might be justly accused of inconsistency, if 
we entered into any thing like a minute investiga- 
tion of the general history of Kerry. Since, how- 
ever, books of this description are generally con- 
sulted by tourists previously to commencing their 
excursions, as well as in their leisure hours — and 
allusion must occasionally be made, during our 
progress round the lakes, to those ancient chief- 
tains who once enjoyed the supremacy of the 
surrounding country, (of the fortresses of whose 
power, and the depositories of whose ashes, some 
vestiges are still existing,) — it may not be wholly 
irrelevant to premise a few words on this subject. 
As early as the second century, mention is 
made of the maritime parts of the county of 
Kerry, in the works of Ptolemy the geographer. 



6 County of Kerry. 

who appears to have examined the coast from 
the Kenmare to the Shannon. Those antiquari- 
ans who uphold the Spanish colonization of Ire- 
land, assert that a considerable band of the Mi- 
lesians entered the country along the former of 
these rivers, which was termed by Ptolemy the 
Zernus, supporting their opinion on certain etymo- 
logical arguments, unnecessary to be introduced 
here. Some of the Irish historians allege, that 
this country has its name from Ciar, son to Fer- 
gus, King of Ulster ; while others assert, and 
with more probability, that it is derived from 
Ciar-na-Luachra, son to Cork, a Munster mo- 
narch. By the monkish authors it was termed 
the country of St. Brandon, the patron saint, 
from whose name a lofty mountain in the western 
part of the county is still called Brandon Hill. 

About the time of the English invasion, the 
county of Kerry was subject to a number of 
petty toparchs, among whom were the O'Con- 
nors, the O'Sullivans, the O'Donoghues (dis- 
tinguished into the families of O'Donoghue More 
and O'Donoghue Ross), and the Mac Carthys. 



County of Kerry. 7 

After most of the other clans had been subdued, 
the chief of the Mac Carthys still maintained his 
independence, having intrenched himself among 
inaccessible mountains, woods, and fastnesses. 
Being however obliged, in consequence of a piece 
of domestic treachery, to apply for succour to 
the celebrated adventurer Raymond Le Grosse, 
the English at length obtained a footing in the 
country, — Mac Carthy himself having granted a 
considerable tract of land to Raymond, in which 
he settled his son Maurice, the founder of the 
present family of the Fitmaurices or Fitzmorrises. 
During several centuries, the history of this 
county consists of little more than a tissue of al- 
ternate victories and defeats, experienced by the 
native chieftains and the adjoining English settlers, 
in which feudal contentions, the Mac Carthies and 
Fitz-Geralds were usually foremost. Notwith- 
standing the influence of hostile rancour, and 
national prejudice, the name of Mac Carthy More 
appears to have been always treated with respect. 
A member of this family was even ennobled by 
Queen Elizabeth, in 1565, under the title of Earl 



8 County of Kerry. 

of Glencare, and, although he afterwards became 
implicated in the rebellion of O'Neil, he was suf- 
fered, upon making a formal submission, to re- 
tain the undisturbed enjoyment of his estates until 
his death. Most of the families which have been 
settled in Kerry, during and since the reign of 
Elizabeth, have obtained their possessions out of 
the confiscated estates of the former inhabitants. 



•M>-»H§M« <• 1" 






TOWN OF KILLARNEY. 

The town consists of a leading street, lying 
north and south, and of two smaller ones which 
branch off from it. One of these takes an east- 
erly direction from the southern end of the Main 
Street, and the other diverges towards the west, 
nearly from the centre of the town. These streets 
are well paved and nagged throughout, and their 
width is found quite sufficient, owing to the clean- 
liness which prevails in every quarter. 

The influx of strangers bent on objects of plea- 
sure, and generally prepared to indulge in luxu- 
rious living, combined with the extended views 
of the late noble proprietor, have conspired to 
increase the size of the town, and to occasion the 
respectability of its present appearance. Killar- 
ney has indeed, owing to the operation of these 
two causes, at length become, from a straggling 
and insignificant hamlet, the residence of five 
thousand inhabitants. 

Lord Kenmare's mansion is situated at the 



10 Town of Killarney. 

southern extremity of the Main Street, from 
which it is divided by a high wall. Near this is the 
Church, a plain modern edifice, with a clock and 
slated steeple. Beyond it are the News-Rooms, 
to which strangers easily procure access, and 
which is supplied with books of general reference 
as well as with newspapers. Immediately oppo- 
site is the Mail- Coach Hotel. The nearest street 
on the right leads to the Roman Catholic Semi- 
nary, and to the Lancasterian School, which has 
been lately erected under the auspices of the 
Right Rev. Dr. Sughrue, and is conducted by 
the brethren of the order of St. Francis. Through 
this street the Cork road lies. Further down are 
the Market House and Post Office, beyond which 
the houses continue uninterrupted to a considera- 
ble distance. From this street a road branches 
to the right towards Castle-island ; on the left, 
but more in the direction of the Main Street, is 
the mail-coach road to Tralee ; opposite to the 
Market House a regular well-built street (in 
which are several commodious inns,) slopes off 
westward, and terminates at the West Domain 



Town of Killarney — Mails. 11 

on the Aghadoe road. To the right of it is the 
Roman Catholic Chapel, and, nearly opposite, 
the Sessions' House. Farther down, stands an 
extensive Boarding School, and at the lower end, 
on the right, the Presentation Convent. The 
shops are numerous, and well supplied with such 
articles as are in general demand. The entire has 
an air of neatness, cleanliness and comfort ; and 
the leading characteristics of the people are ho- 
nesty and civility. 

Mails— The English, Dublin, Cork, Ma- 
croom, and Millstreet mails, reach Killarney 
every day at from twelve to twenty minutes after 
three o'clock in the afternoon, with the exception 
of the Dublin mail, which does not arrive on 
Tuesdays. They are despatched every day at 
nine o'clock in the morning. The Kenmare mail 
arrives at eight o'clock on Mondays, Thursdays, 
and Saturdays, and is despatched at thirty mi- 
nutes after three o'clock in the afternoon on the 
same days. The Tralee mail, also, arrives gene- 
rally at ten minutes after eight in the morning, 



12 Town of Killarney — Roads. 

and is despatched at thirty minutes after three in 
the afternoon, every day. 

Roads. — The great or leading roads to Killar- 
ney lie either through Cork or Limerick. From 
Cork a conveyance by the mail may be provided, 
but from Limerick travellers are obliged to 
post, either through Bandon or Castle-island. 
The establishment of the steam-packet between 
Limerick and Kilrush, has opened a new route, 
by which the fare of each person, from Limerick 
to Killarney, does not exceed three crowns. The 
packet puts off a boat to Tarbert island, where 
passengers from Limerick a're landed, — the fare 
being five shillings and five-pence, or three shil- 
lings and nine-pence to those who go in the steer- 
age. From thence, through Listowel to Tralee, 
well-appointed jaunting-cars may be hired at the 
expense of five shillings and five-pence each per- 
son, or chaises at the regular rate of posting. 
But, during the summer season, post-cars usually 
ply this distance at a much cheaper rate, and at 
Tralee the mail coach is met. Travellers may 



Killarney — Hotels — Inns — Lodgings. 13 

regulate their time according to the advertise- 
ments of the steam packet, which are posted up 
in all the houses of entertainment at Limerick. 

Hotels — Inns— Lodgings. — There are three 
hotels in Killarney, which afford every reason- 
able accommodation, and which mark the rapid 
increase and improvement of the town. Scarcely 
ten years have elapsed, since parties with car- 
riages were indebted to the liberality of Lord 
Kenmare for a place to secure them against the 
weather. The preference which any one house 
may obtain over another is frequently determined 
by accidental circumstances, and, although it 
may appear invidious to particularise, we cannot 
refrain from noticing here the extreme satisfac- 
tion, which is universally expressed by those 
who have lodged at the establishment of Mr. 
Murphy, which is provided with accommodation 
for carriages, &c. 

Provisions are in Killarney remarkably cheap. 

Kerry mutton, so celebrated for its venison fla- 
c 



14 Killarney — Boats — Boatmen — Guides. 

your, seldom exceeds 3§d. a pound, and salmon 
is to be had fresh from the lake at Id. a pound. 
Butter, the staple commodity of the district, is 
always reasonable. Killarney can boast of un- 
adulterated and well-baked loaf bread, an article 
of very rare occurrence in the smaller provincial 
towns of Ireland. For this it is indebted to 
Stephen Galway, Esq. the Seneschal, whose en- 
terprising spirit, and extended views, have con- 
ferred many advantages on the community.— 
Those who protract their residence here can 
procure lodgings — from a single room to h suite 
of apartments — the charges for which necessarily 
vary with their description and extent, but which 
are, in general, exceedingly reasonable. 

Boats — Boatmen — Guides. — The procuring 
a guide who may have an intimate knowledge of 
all the paths and stations in the neighbourhood, 
and some perception of the beauties of nature, 
is of infinite advantage, in enabling visitors to 
avoid the fatigue of uninteresting excursions, and 
to secure an expeditious and satisfactory survey 



Killarney —Boats— Boatmen— Guides. 15 

of the entire region. Such are readily found, 
and may be engaged at a moderate hire. Boat- 
men of a similar character, should, if possible, 
be selected : and parties should be careful not to 
allow them the unrestrained use of spirits, in 
which some of them are perhaps but too much 
inclined to indulge, being always allowed re- 
freshments when the company dine abroad on 
their excursions ; they are, however, in general, 
exceedingly civil and obliging, and thoroughly 
acquainted with all the circumstances relative 
to the lakes. The fare is an English shil- 
ling for rowing each person through the 
Lower Lake, or shorter distances, and one 
and eight-pence for any longer stages, or when 
they are kept on duty all day. The general tenor 
of their conversation is so interlarded with mar- 
vellous accounts of enchantments, and other su- 
pernatural concerns, that it is difficult to separate 
these delusions from whatever solid information 
they may have gleaned, by listening to the ob- 
servations of the more intelligent of their number. 
Those who will follow the usual routine adopted 



1 6 Kiilarn ey — Boats — Boatmen — Guides. 

by visitors, may have the use of Lord Kenmare's 
boats, which are under the direction of a regular 
superintendant, or pilot, as he is frequently call- 
ed, and have been liberally provided by his lord- 
ship with the means of general accommodation. 
Small parties, single individuals, or such as would 
be economical, may hire a small boat, manned 
by a couple of rowers, and visit even the Upper 
Lake, at the rate of five shillings and five-pence a 
day. In all cases it is preferable that the com- 
pany should fix on the route, and exercise their 
own judgment, as far as it may be practicable, — 
since many are obliged to dispense with visiting 
several interesting spots, through ignorance of 
their proximity to the route chosen.^ A thorough 
acquaintance with the following pages will en- 

* It would be inexcusable to conclude even this 
brief notice of the ecclesiastical metropolis of Kerry, 
without adverting to the advanced state of classical 
learning in its vicinity, and indeed throughout the 
entire county. Besides our own individual experience 
we have the testimonies of many distinguished writers 
to cite in support of this opinion. 

"It is asserted that Latin has been very generally 
studied in Kerry, even by the lowest ranks of the 



KiUarney— Boats — Boatm en — Guides, 1 7 

able any stranger, however inexperienced, to 
direct his course through all the scenery of the 
lakes and their environing shores, and enable him 

people; and 1 have heard more than one gentleman 
bear testimony to the circumstance of barefooted boys 
having been found reading classical authors in the 
fields. It is related of one of these poor fellows, that, 
upon an expostulation having been made with him on 
such an unproiitable use of his time, he replied, with 
much spirit, — 

" Est quodam prodire tenus, si non datur ultra." 
" A gentleman of my acquaintance, indeed, who was 
with me at Killarney, once happened to be present 
when a poor boy came into the inn yard, and asked 
for alms in Latin; and he observed that several of the 
towns-folk, who were by-stand ers, replied to him in 
that language, and, for some minutes, continued the 
conversation with apparent facility." Weld's Killar- 
ney. 

"Concerning the genius of the common people of 
this country, which leads them to a knowledge of clas- 
sical learning, somewhat is already noticed, p. 67. I have 
in my survey met with some good latin scholars who 
did not understand the english tongue; particularly, 
one Peter Kelly, who lived in a very uncultivated part 
of the county, already described, called Ballybog. 
Greek is also taught in some of the mountainous parts, 
generally by persons who pick it up, as mendicant 
scholars, at some english school/' "It is well known, 
that classical learning extends itself, even to a fault, 
c2 



18 KiUarney— Boats — Boatmen — Guides. 

to detect any attempts, on the part of the boat- 
men or guides, to alter or abridge the intended 
excursion. 



among the lower and poorer kind in this county ; many 
of whom, to the taking them off more useful works, 
have greater knowledge in this way, than some of the 
better sort, in other places/' Smith's Kerry. In fact, 
many of the peasants are able to converse in three lan- 
guages, the Latin, the English, and the Irish. 



'►>'»MM«'«§ M 



19 



WEST DOMAIN. 

We commence our walk by leaving Killarney 
through New Street, but obtain no prospect 
until we arrive at a small bridge over the 
river Denagh. Here the left side of the road is 
bounded by a high wall, but the right opens upon 
a cultivated spot which will be described here- 
after*. On passing the bridge, and knocking at 
a large gate on the left hand, admission is im- 
mediately obtained to the grounds denominated 
Lord Kenmare's West Domain. A path directly 
onward leads to a wooden bridge over the 
Denagh, beyond which we turn to the left, and, 
following the flexures of a walk well shaded 
with shrubs and forest trees, arrive at an open 
area, which extends from the rere of his lord- 
ship's mansion. Formerly a vista, terminated by 
Ross Castle, opened from the eastern angle of 
this terrace, but the intervening wood having 
been suffered to screen it out, there only remains 
a narrow telescopic view of the waters, and of 



20 West Domain. 

the lesser hills which trend away beyond the 
Lower Lake. In the evening, the line of water, 
seen over the tufts of trees which bound the lawn, 
forms merely a streak of light in the landscape, 
totally inadequate to counterpoise the overpower- 
ing masses of shadow, which everywhere sur- 
round it; during other parts of the day it is' 
generally in obscurity, owing to the reflection of 
the mountains, — and at such times the whole scene 
is tame and unattractive. 

There are several stations in these grounds, 
from which admirable prospects of the Lower 
Lake might be opened, so as to allow a view of 
the mountains in all their grandeur and sublimity, 
which at present are only partially visible. In- 
stead of this, the pedestrian is hemmed in, during 
the remainder of his walk through the grounds, 
by quaintly trimmed hedges, flanking smooth 
gravel walks, as monotonous as art can render 
them. Sometimes the fatigued eye is relieved 
from the irksome repetition of these unvarying 
promenades, by an occasional shrub, the light 
foliage and pliant boughs of which may have 



West Domain — Station 1. 21 

escaped the Vandal touch of perverted taste, and 
retained their natural luxuriance. On arriving at 
the wall which divides the shrubbery from Ross 
road, the views, though confined and partial, are 
agreeable, especially the lower walk across the 
lawn. At its western extremity we again meet 
the Denagh. A delightful path along the margin 
of this lovely stream conducts to the little wooden 
bridge, which we now recross. Instead, how- 
ever, of leaving the grounds, we turn to the left 
up a rather sudden acclivity, and occupy the 
first station for a general view, at a clump of 
Scotch firs, which grow upon the brow of the 
hill. 

Station 1. 

The town of Killarney appears hence to much 
advantage, the whole extent of the Main Street, 
with its white walls and slated roofs, being dis- 
closed to view, except in a few places, where 
tufts of foliage iaterpose their verdant masses, 
and heighten the charms of the scene by an agree- 
able relief against the buildings. The hedge-row 



22 West Domain — Station 2. 

wood of the Aghadoe road terminates the pros- 
pect on the left, the most distant hill on which 
side is Tullig; and the nearer wood is Park, at 
the lower end of which Mr. Cronin's house is 
beautifully situated. The double-peaked hill, 
seen beyond the church steeple, is called the 
Paps ; and, between it and Drumhoomper Hill 
(which is nearer to the right, and surmounted by 
Mr. Coltman's castle), is a valley, through which 
flows the river Flesk, from a fine conical moun- 
tain of the same name, but of which the view is 
excluded by the group of Scotch firs above-men- 
tioned. 

Ascending a little, and inclining towards the 
lakes, we take our next station at a little knoll, 
adorned with a group of mountain-ash trees, not 
a hundred yards distant. 

Station 2. 

We have now lost sight of the town, but gained — 
in addition to all the rest of the scenery — a view of 
Flesk mountain, and of the indented outline called 
Sronnabuie, lying further to the right. The lofty 



West Domain — Station 2. 23 

Mangerton succeeds, reposing (as Gray would have 
said,) like a huge monster, too unwieldy to move, 
In a large hollow, that seems, as it were, scooped 
from the side of this mountain, there is a consi- 
derable lake, — and, near the summit of the western 
ridge, where a circular and steep crater appears, 
there is another, called the Devil's Punch-Bowl— 
remarkable for the perennial coldness of its water, 
and for its extreme depth, which has indeed 
never been fathomed. The top of Mangerton is 
generally obscured by the vapours which abound 
throughout the district— a circumstance which, 
owing to the tameness of its outline, is rather ac- 
ceptable than otherwise to the lovers of pictu- 
resque effect, however disagreeable the consequen- 
ces may frequently be to those who ascend to the 
summit. 

The next mountain, westward, is Turk, with its 
central peak and two lateral projections. It is 
separated from Mangerton by a deep ravine, 
through which lies a rugged road, leading to the 
town of Kenmare. A stream, descending from 
the rocks, gurgles along this glen, until it dashes 



24 West Domain — Station 2. 

down that frowning chasm, where you see it 
winding away to join the peaceful waters of the 
Middle Lake. This lake also bears the name of 
Turk, from Turk mountain, the base of which it 
washes from end to end. It is not visible from 
this station, but its place is easily discoverable 
by the position of the mountain. The receding 
hills in the centre decline towards the Upper 
Lake; and that mountain jutting forward directly 
in front is the beautiful Glena, with its graceful 
swells and sable forests, advancing on the Lower 
Lake. Next lies the double-peaked Tomies ; 
and, lessening on the right, a succession of 
pointed hills of diversified forms verge towards 
+he horizon, where they mingle with the heights 
that overhang Dingle Bay. Beneath is disclosed 
the great Lower Lake, expanding its spacious 
surface to the delighted eye, and peacefully lav- 
ing its rich variety of wooded islands ; the most 
conspicuous of which is Ross, having the castle of 
the same name at one extremity of it. The 
grounds of Mucruss stretch like a barrier in front 
of Turk, and the mouldering pinnacles of the 



West Domain — Station 2. 25 

tower of the abbey may be seen overtopping the 
trees, where the peninsula bends round Castle- 
lough Bay. The wooded grounds of Cahimane, 
skirting the nearer margin of the bay, and the 
level inclosures of pasturage and lawns, extend 
to the station where we are now seated. 

Nothing can be finer than this display of the 
most striking features of natural landscape, con- 
centrated in the most diversified luxuriance. 
When the sun rises through a partially clouded 
atmosphere, the blue, withdrawing hills, hardly 
distinguishable from the lighter haze which over- 
hangs the horizon, — the side of Mangerton tinged 
with a golden glow, — Turk deeply dyed in the 
coldest purple, — Glena seen smiling with its co- 
louring of olive and brown, — the calm lake, re- 
flecting the silver drapery of the sky, — form a mag- 
nificent assemblage of objects ; while a line of 
quivering light glances along the waters, and 
glides, like the footsteps of a spirit, upon their 
surface. The undulating eminences, which gently 
ascend from the nearer shore, interpose a fine 
green amid the aerial tint of the lake, the un- 
D 



26 West Domain— Station 2. 

defined hue of the distance, and the fresh and 
varied colouring of the herbage that embellishes 
the foreground, thickly sprinkled with dew-drops 
that sparkle in the morning sun. Nor is the 
sight alone regaled — 

Up springs the lark, 
Shrill- voiced and loud, the messenger of morn. 

Thomson. 

The bleating of flocks which are scattered over 
the mountains, — the lowing of imprisoned cat- 
tle, which pace the rocky shores of the islands, — 
the distant voices of peasants, heard at inter- 
vals, — and the barking of dogs, — come softened 
on the ear ; and — if sounds be picturesque— that 
call is eminently so, with which the early fisher- 
man invites his mates to accompany him on his 
daily avocations: — 

But who the melodies of morn can tell? 
The wild brook babbling down the mountain side; 
The lowing herd; the sheepfold's simple bell; 
The pipe of early shepherd dim descried 
la the lone valley; echoing far and wide 
The clamorous horn along the cliffs above; 
The hollow murmur of the ocean-tide ; 
The hum of bees, the linnet's lay of love, 
And the full choir that wakes the universal grove. 

Beattib. 



West Domain — Station 2. 27 

We continue our route by regaining the high- 
road, and proceeding on towards Aghadoe. 
The way is pleasing, and can be rendered ex- 
tremely agreeable by pursuing a narrow lane, 
which leads down to Reen Point, until we arrive 
within a few yards of the main road. The view 
is along the lower part of the Lower Lake, and 
is seen to most advantage in the evening. The 
objects were all described at the last station ; — but 
we have here a new foreground — and the position 
of many parts of the landscape is so much 
changed as to present a very different picture, 
full of softness, simplicity, and beauty. 

Following the road, we soon behold the re- 
markable ruins on the ridge of Aghadoe Hill, 
which we approach by a path leading upwards 
to the right. The ascent is very fatiguing, but 
this disadvantage is amply compensated by the 
extensive views across the lake, which this emi- 
nence commands. Indeed, the least enthusiastic 
traveller, who rambles through these enchanting 
regions, will be disposed to sympathize in the 
feeling, which dictated the following lines of 



28 West Domain— Station 2. 

a classic poet, who once resided at no very- 
great distance from them ; and to whose inability, 
in those turbulent times, to visit the scenery of 
Killarney, — or, perhaps, his ignorance of its at- 
tractions, — it is probably to be attributed, that no 
poem descriptive of the lakes, whiclrhas hitherto 
appeared, is at all worthy of the subject :— 

The waies, through which my weary steps I guyde 
In this delightfull land of Faery, 
Are so exceeding spacious and wyde, 
And sprinckled with such sweet variety 
Of all that pleasant is to eare or eye, 
That I nigh ravisht with rare thoughts delight 
My tedious travell doe forget thereby; 
And when I gin to feele decay of might, 
It strength to me supplies, and chears my dulled spright. 

Spenser. 



••>.>.•>.•> Jp <.<!■<• <»• 



29 



AGHADOE. 

The imperfect walls of the abbey church are 
all that now remain of the ancient episcopal edi- 
fice that once stood here. The narrow oblong 
apertures, which served for windows, mark its 
high antiquity— although the carved semicircular 
Saxon arch of the western doorway is of more 
modern erection. The exact period of the foun- 
dation of the original structure cannot be authen- 
tically traced ; but ArchdallV& quotation from 
the monkish annals of Innisfallen represents it as 
already an old abbey in 1231 ; and Weldt sup- 

*"Aodhsoii of Conor, son of AulifFMor O' Do- 
noghue, King of Eoganacht Lochalein, died in the 
year 1231, and was buried in his old abbey at Agha- 
doe; of which we can learn no other particulars.' 1 — 
" Aghadoe, called anciently Aithedea." ArchdalVs 
Monasticon Hibernicum. 

t "The writer of these annals" [those of Innisfallen,] 
" was a monk of the abbey of Innisfallen, who flou- 
rished at a period when the members of these religious 
communities were prone to attach considerable im- 
D2 



30 , Aghadoe. 

poses it may have been founded earlier than the 
sixth century. We must remember, however, 
that the Rev. Dr. Ledwich* has proved, from 



portance to the antiquity of their establishments. The 
abbey of lnnisfallen, to which he belonged, was 
founded as early as the sixth century, yet he empha- 
tically styles this "the old abbey of Aghadoe ; a cir- 
cumstance from which it may not unfairly be inferred, 
that its foundation was at least coeval with, perhaps 
anterior to, that of lnnisfallen." Weld's Killamey. 

* " From every evidence supplied by antiquity it is 
certain, the Irish had neither domestic edifices or re. 
ligious structures of lime and stone, antecedent to the 
great northern invasion in the 9th century. Some 
years before the birth of Christ, Drusus erected fifty 
castles or forts along the Rhine, so that the calcination 
of stone and the preparation of mortar, could not be 
unknown to the natives, and yet an hundred years af- 
ter, Tacitus assures us, the Germans did not use cement 
or mortar. A century later, Herodian and Dion Cas- 
sius declare the same. Tacitus does not say, the Ger- 
mans were ignorant of mortar and its composition, that 
would have been impossible from their intercourse 
with the Romans, he only denies them the use of it : 
their riches, as this writer observes, were their flocks 
and herds, their life was pastoral ; a state of society 
-wherein no one expects to find durable structures. And 
yet they had skill enough to form subterranean gra- 



Aghadoe. 31 

evidences supplied by antiquity, that no building 
whatever of lime and stone, whether sacred or 
profane, existed in Ireland previously to the great 
northern invasion in the ninth century. 

In the left angle of the further end of this edi- 
fice lies an ancient stone, engraven with the occult 
symbols employed by the Pagan priesthood, 
traces of which on this slab are with difficulty 
discernible. The inscription is greatly oblite- 
rated by time, if such a term can with propriety 
be applied to a diffuse range of those hieroglyphic 
marks called the *Ogham characters, which nei- 

naries and antrile chambers to secure their corn, and 
soften the severity of the winter's cold. Such was ex- 
actly -the case with the Irish/' Ledwich^s Antiquities 
of Ireland. 

*■* " Ogham, or Ogum Characters, among the Irish 
antiquaries, are certain characters found on monu- 
ments, and on old writings of a cryptographic, or ste- 
nographic nature : these antiquaries contend that their 
origin is very remote, and that their existence proves 
the justice of the claim which the Irish make to the 
use of letters at a period long antecedent to that when 
they were first introduced into the other Western na- 
tions of Europe." Rees Cyclopedia, Article "Ogham/, 



32 Aghadoe- 

ther antiquarian industry, learning, or fancy, has 

hitherto been able to decypher with certainty : — 

Cyphers of vague import, where the Eye 

Traces no spot, in which the Heart may read 

History or Prophecy of Friend, or Child, 

Or gentle Maid, our first and early love, 

Or Father, or the venerable name 

Of our adored Country ! 

Coleridge. 

It requires no search after the mouldering stones 
of this ancient fabric — no meditation over the ob- 
scure vestiges of characters perishable and for- 
gotten like those who carved them — to be here re- 



Of these symbols there were three principal kinds, 
of which the virgular Ogum, as it is called, is the 
most curious, and is thus described in Astle's Origin 
of Writing : — " It was composed of certain lines or 
marks, which derive their power from their situation 
or position, as they stand in relation to one principal 
line, over or under which they are placed, or through 
which they are drawn ; the principal line is horizon- 
tal, and serves for a rule or guide, whose upper part 
is called the left, and the under side the right ; above, 
under, and through which line, the characters or 
marks are drawn, which stand in the place of vowels^ 
consonants, diphthongs, and triphthongs/' 



Aghadoe. 33 

minded of the fleeting state of mortality. It is pre- 
sented to the senses, and forced on the mind, at 
every step. Skulls, bones, and fragments of 
coffins lie strewed in all directions, except to- 
wards the north of the building, where no graves 
are ever made : 

'Tis a strange chance, 
In some excursion toward the pleasant hills, 
On happiest musing bent — to light upon 
A lone and antient grave-yard. 'Tis, methinks, 
Like somewhat on life's ocean met, that tells 
Its unsuspected latitude. East and west 
The light bark turns in quest of summer isles ; 
While the perfidious current, unperceived, 
Bears northward to a mute and sunless coast 
We little dream of, — 'till we meet it thus, 
Even in our gayest purposes.* 

Wills. 

A peasant, repairing to Killarney very early one 
morning on a market-day, had to pass this ceme- 
tery in his way thither. Just as he began to de- 
scend the declivity beyond it, he was terror-struck 

* This extract, and another which occurs elsewhere, 
are taken from a collection of manuscript poems. The 
name of the author has not been affixed to any of his 
productions hitherto published. 



34 Aghadoe. 

at the sight of a human skull, sometimes rolling 
a little way down the path before him, then stop- 
ping, again resuming its unequable motioD, and 
finally remaining at rest. He halted in an agony 
of fear — but, having at length recruited his courage 
a little, he was meditating to approach the ap- 
palling object, when it suddenly commenced a 
new movement across the road, and determined 
him on making a speedy retreat* Meeting with 
several of his neighbours, who were travelling 
towards Killarney on similar business with his 
own, to whom he communicated the strange 
account, they proceeded onward together, " ex- 
ploring every place with curious eye," and at 
length came within sight of the locomotive 
skull. Most of the party drew back, and, had 
they all fled, the agency of enchantment in the 
production of the phenomenon would have been 
strenuously advocated. Luckily however for the 
cause of truth, one peasant less credulous than 
the rest (armed with the sign of the cross arid a 
panoply of orisons,) approached the miraculous 
relique, and discovered upon inspection that its 



Round Tower of Aghadoe. 35 

sanctuary had been invaded by a profane rat, 
who had entrapped himself within it in such a 
manner that he could not get out, and whose 
struggling had caused all their wonder and 
dismay. This circumstance has been repeated 
with a garniture of additional details, and — as in 
the case of the other miraculous relations with 
which this part of the country abounds — the sim- 
ple and less palatable truth of the story is glossed 
over with a colouring of fiction, and the instru- 
mentality of the enchanter's wand zealously as- 
serted. 

Opposite the north-western angle of the church 
is the lower part of a 

ROUND TOWER. 

This dilapidated fragment is elevated scarcely 
twelve feet above the ground, and is still rapidly 
crumbling away. The conflicting opinions which 
exist respecting the narrow cylindrical towers of 
Ireland, would lead into too wide a field of 
discussion to be entered upon here. However, 
as curiosity is always most alive where demon- 
strative certainty is least to be expected — and the 



36 Round Tower of Aghadoe. 

enjoyments of the tourist must be considerably, 
enhanced by even a slight degree of preliminary 
information relative to the antique remains which 
are so thickly scattered over Ireland (but which 
the barbarism of these civilized times is actively 
employed in obliterating) — we shall briefly state — 
that these structures have been described as watch- 
towers by Walsh, belfries by Dr. Ledwich, places 
of penance by Collinson, and fire-temples by 
General Vallancey. All these opinions have been 
eagerly embraced and pertinaciously defended by 
many learned individuals ; and yet it must be re- 
marked — that none of them have emanated from 
any authentic sources of ancient record, but have 
been principally supported on coinciding proba- 
bilities, the aid of fancy being often called in to 
supply the deficiency of truth. * 



* We shall quote a few of these opinions, without 
venturing to decide upon their respective claims to cre- 
dit. " Their figure somewhat resembles those slender 
high round steeples described by travellers in Turkey 
that are called minarets, adjoining to their mosques or 
temples. Cloghachd, the name by which they are 
still called among the native Irish, gives us a further 



Pulpit of Aghadoe. 37 

Having departed hence, and returning down 
the hill, we observe in a field, at a very short dis- 
tance on our right, a heavy mass of building, 
vulgarly called 

THE PULPIT. 

This, notwithstanding its appellation, has evi- 
dently been a place of strength. The walls, 



proof of their original, that they were founded first by 
Ostmen : for the Irish word Cloghachd is taken from a 
foreign tongue, and being a term of art imports the 
thing it signifies must likewise be derived from foreign- 
ers, as were it necessary might he made appear by 
many instances. Now the Irish word does plainly 
owe its etymology to Clugga, a German-Saxon word 
that signifies a bell ; from whence we have borrowed 
our modern word a clock ; this appellation also shews 
the end for which these towers were built, for belfries 
or steeples, wherein was hung a bell to call the people 
to religious worship : but the cavity or hollow space 
within being so narrow, we must conclude the bell 
must needs be small, one of a larger size not having 
room to ring out or turn round, which argues too they 
are ancient, for the larger bells are an invention of 
later times, and were not used in the earlier ages of 
the church. These towers, the better to let out the 
sound, and make the bell heard at a greater distance, 
have all of them towards the summit four openings or 
E 



38 Pulpit of Aghadoe. 

which are of massive solidity below, diminish a 
little in thickness towards the top, and the interior 
exhibits the appearance of having been divided 
into several stories. There is no record known 
to exist concerning this structure, which does not 
appear to have been an appendage to the build- 
ings of the Abbey ; although, from its proximity, 
it might once have been included in the establish- 
ment, as two similar remains, attached to Quin 
Abbey in the county of Clare, undoubtedly were. 

windows, opposite to one another, that regard the se- 
veral quarters of the heavens, and though they agree 
much in their shape, yet they so far differ in their 
model, that some remarkable distinction may easily 
be observed between one tower and another.'"' Boates 
and Molyneux s Natural History. 

" The reverend Mr. Ledwich, in his disseitation on 
the round towers, has collected much matter concern- 
ing them and their use since the times of Christianity ; 
but I am of opinion, that these towers are of a more 
ancient date than he allows, and that they are of 
Scythian origin." Vallanceys Collectanea de Rebus 
Hibernicis. The General endeavours subsequently to 
identify the Irish round towers with those of the con • 
tinent, a perfect specimen of which exists in Bulgaria, 
and which, from the etymology of its name, he infers 
to have been a fire-tower. 



Denagh Bridge — Banish Fort of Agkadoe. 39 

Retracing our former path, we descend to the 
main road, and return to 

DENAGH BRIDGE, 
the point at which we entered the West Domain. 
Here we follow a pleasant foot- way along the 
side of the stream, and observe an eminence in 
front, over which the enclosure of a rath or fort is 
plainly distinguishable, where we shall find a site 
which commands a new and extensive view of the 
surrounding country. After passing Galway's 
Mills, we turn to the right, and enter upon the 
Tralee mail-coach road, from which we cross 
into the field formerly noticed, and seat ourselves 
upon the mound which encompasses the 
DANISH FORT.* 
In taking a survey of these general views, it is 
always better to begin at the extremity on either 

* One of those motes or raths, which abound through- 
out Ireland, and the construction of which has been 
generally ascribed to the Danes, although the evidence 
on which this opinion rests is far from convincing. 
" The raths are large circular motes, upon the tops of 
hills ; some raised to a very great height. They are 
in general so situated that a correspondence, by sig- 
e3 



40 , Station 3. — Aghadoe. 

side (perhaps the left), and direct the eye round 
the distant parts first, — then explore the cen- 
tral features by returning in a contrary direction, 
— and finish with those objects which occupy the 
immediate fore-ground. 

Station 3. 

Here we behold, far to the east, part of a hill 
beyond the Paps, and, farther to the south, the 
fine outline of Glenflesk mountain ; next, Man- 
gerton, in all its magnitude ; and — between Turk 
and Glena in front — a finely broken assemblage of 
receding mountains, which surround the bed of the 
Upper Lake. Tomies and its decreasing chain 

nais, could be expeditiously circulated from one to 
another, throughout the country. They are commonly 
called Danish forts, from an idea that they were sta- 
tions occupied. -by the Danes, during their plundering 
possession of Ireland, about the eighth century. But 
they are probably of much greater antiquity, even 
prior to the common use of stone buildings, although 
they might have been used by the Danes, as above 
mentioned." — Neilsoris Irish Grammar. The word 
mote is of Teutonic origin, and signifies a judicial as- 
sembly. It still exists in the compound Wittenage- 
?nole, for which see Blackstone. 



Station 3 — Aghadoe. 41 

gradually diminish towards the west, and above 
it shoot up the towering peaks denominated 
M'Gillicuddy's Reeks. The Lower Lake, 
speckled with its numerous islands, is from no 
point more distinctly seen than from this station, 
but no part whatever of the other lakes is visible. 
The town of Killarney exhibits a beautiful ap- 
pearance among the woods and cultivated enclo- 
sures, laid out as in a map before the eye. The 
range of mountains here is of so great an extent, 
that it detracts from the grandeur of their effect, 
notwithstanding the flatness of the intermediate 
grounds (especially of those about the lakes), and 
the level expanse of water, which stretches from 
the eastern point of Turk all along to the eastward 
of Tomies Mountain. Perhaps one reason for this 
comparative minuteness is — that the station chosen 
is at too great a height ; for, although it is not ab- 
solutely on a hill that we take our stand, the eleva- 
tion is still sufficient to raise the point of sight a 
great way up the mountains, and the sense of al- 
titude, imperceptibly impressed on the mind by 

the abrupt declivity at our feet, reduces their ap- 
E3 



42 Deer-Park of Aghadoe. 

parent magnitudes. On the left is a view of the 

DEER-PARK 
of Lord Kenmare. Having observed its situation, 
and pursued the road leading off towards the 
left (which can now be easily traced), we proceed 
onward to the gate ; having passed through which, 
and turned back for a short space inside the wall, 
we enter a wooded walk along the course of the 
Denagh. This river flows here through a small 
but romantic glen, the scenery of which, in pro- 
portion to its extent, does not yield to any in the 
neighbourhood of Killarney, — and is always much 
admired as being the only specimen of cultivated, 
and at the same time secluded nature, in the vi- 
cinity of the lakes. The walks are well laid out, 
and so contrived as to traverse some delightfully 
sequestered spots. The tangled roots of copse- 
wood, interwoven like wicker-work, and trailing^ 
along the impending banks, — the trunks of the oaks, 
fantastically ramified, and enlaced with ivy, — the 
graceful meanderings of the rippling river, — and the 
occasional openings of the avenues, — regale the de- 
lighted eye, until a bridge and railing appear, en- 



Station 4. — Aghadoe. 43 

compassed by a profusion of picturesque objects. 
We ascend hence towards the right by a devious 
path, and emerge from the dell on a lawn, stud- 
ded with the oak, the elm, the ash, and other 
forest trees, some of which are grouped together in 
very large clumps. 

Station 4. 
We now cross to the great oak wood that over- 
hangs Killarney. At the gate in the wall, which 
cuts off that portion of the grounds in the posses- 
sion of Mr. Cronin, we obtain, through a vista, a 
glimpse of the view drawn by Fisher, and en- 
graved by Vivares, in 1770. This scene forms 
part of that described at the station near the Da- 
nish Fort, and the only additional feature which 
will occur to the observer is Turk Mountain, 
the appearance of which is at present so grand 
and solemn, when compared with that of the 
unpicturesque, rectangular breaches and fis- 
sures, which were known to disfigure it half 
a century since, but which are now hidden 
by the growth of the timber upon its sides. 
Traversing the road towards the west, we pass 



44 Station 5. — Aghadoe. 

Park House, and eater a second wood, at a very 
picturesque little cabin, which — seen from among 
the trees over against the grounds, with a gentle 
hill to the north — strongly resembles those forest 
pieces, so admirably transferred from nature to 
the canvass by the artist Waterloo, whose ge- 
nius expatiated so widely amid the rich, sylvan 
scenery of Flanders. Passing Aghahunnig bridge 
on the Cork road, a little hut appears imme- 
diately beyond it, supported against the steep 
bank of the road, and said to have been built in 
the reign of King William. — Hence we climb the 
grounds of Lisnavigeen, and halt on the brow of 
the second eminence. 

Station 5. 
Here the superiority of a view directed alqng — 
rather than across the Lower Lake — is strikingly 
evident. Although its northern shore is in a range 
with the eye, the lines are altogether so beauti- 
fully contrasted, — the hills appear under such a 
delightful variety of prospect, — and the balance 
of the different parts of the picture, is so accu- 



Station 5. — Aghadoe. 45 

rately proportioned — that scarcely any thing is 
wanting to complete it. The break on the left, al- 
lowing a partial glimpse of Glenflesk, however 
attractive it might be in other situations, is here 
only a secondary object. We must direct our 
eye across Aghahunnig bridge, whence we have 
just ascended, to behold the distant mountains 
which bound the bay of Dingle, fading away 
into a blueish haze immediately in front of us, — 
and, nearer and more distinct, those of the Lower 
Lake on the south, increasing in grandeur as they 
approach. The beautiful Glena is conspicuously 
prominent, round which the lake flows off ta the 
left, among the declining mountains. Farther east- 
ward stands the triply-peaked Turk, and — be- 
tween it and Glena— we can descry the various 
abrupt hills and crags, which hem in the passage 
to the Upper Lake. 

The Middle Lake (which extends, as we be- 
fore stated, along the base of Turk mountain,) is 
hid by a long screen of foliage, crowning the pe- 
ninsula of Mucruss. 



46 Druidical Circle of Aghadoe. 

Towards the north lie the Hen and Chicken 
Islands. Ross Castle and Innisfallen are the 
principal objects on the Lower Lake, which is 
terminated by low wooded grounds, rising into 
gently swelling slopes as they approach on the 
right. The town of Killarney, smoking in the 
middle ground, is partially seen through the lux- 
uriant woods which surround it, and which con- 
tinue onward to the spot where we are now sta- 
tioned — the trees on each side forming a noble 
frame to the magnificent picture we have de- 
scribed. Those who, are curious in antiquities, 
may visit a 

DRUIDICAL CIRCLE* 
in this neighbourhood ; consisting of seven upright 

* " The similarity of this circle, and the still more 
striking similarity of several larger circles, that have 
been discovered in other parts of Ireland, to some of 
the druidical remains in the isle of Anglesea, afford 
strong grounds for believing that they were constructed 
by the same order of men. But notwithstanding this 
circumstance, as well as the exact resemblance of the 
cromlechs in Ireland to those found in Anglesea, 
which are generally admitted to be the work of the 
druids, it is maintained by several writers on Irish an- 



Violet Hill of Aghadoe — Station 6. 47 

stones, surrounded by a raised earthen inclosure, 
with the addition of two larger ones, placed at 
the distance of about twenty yards from the for- 
mer. Neither the stones, nor the space they 
occupy, is very large. Returning over the bridge, 
we either go on straight to Killarney by the Cork 
road, or turn up to 

VIOLET HILL, 
where there is a grove of firs, conspicuous from 
many places about the lakes, and from which 
there is one of the best general views of the sur- 
rounding scenery. 

Station 6. 
The difference between the view here obtained, 
and that from the gate in the Deer Park, arises 
from its position nearer to the water. Here a 

tiquities, that the druids were unknown in Ireland ; 
and these stone circles are attributed to the votaries of 
Budth, the Phoebus or Apollo of the Irish, who, like 
Vishnou, the Apollo of the brahmins, is supposed to 
have undergone nine incarnations; hence, the nine 
stones of which the circles are found most com- 
monly to be composed. " Weld's Killarney, 



48 Station 6. — Aghadoe. 

more striking assemblage of objects greets the 
eye, their number being fewer, and their charac- 
ter far more picturesque. This station is nearly 
the reverse of that on the hill in the West Domain, 
and is seen to great advantage at sun-set : for the 
less interesting details in the distance are then 
under the strong influence of the solar rays, while 
Glena and the nearer grounds are in negative 
light, or deep shade, — acquiring much grandeur 
from this circumstance, and the contrast they afford 
to the vivid refulgence of the departing luminary. 

The high road runs by the field in which 
we are now stationed, and which is not five mi- 
nutes' walk from the town. This is exceedingly 
convenient for such as remain any length of 
time at Killarney, as they have an opportunity of 
frequently resorting hither to enjoy the infinite di- 
versity of effects, which the glorious scenery 
around produces in endless succession. I once 
experienced the exquisite pleasure of witnessing 
from this spot that peculiar phenomenon which 
sometimes occurs about sun-set, and which is so 
admirably described by Mr. Weld. 



Station 6. — Aghadoe. 49 

" Occasionally an effect is produced by the 
setting sun, on the range of mountains bounding 
the lake, not less beautiful than rare, and totally 
differing from what I remember to have seen in 
other mountainous countries ; though doubtless, 
in particular situations the same appearance may 
result from the variations of the atmosphere. I 
can only attempt to give an idea of it by describ- 
ing it as displaying the mountains in a transpa- 
rent state, and suffused with a lively purple hue. 
Varying however from the aerial aspect of dis- 
tant mountains, all the objects upon them, rocks, 
woods, and even houses, are distinctly visible, — 
more so, indeed, than at noon day ; whilst at 
the same time their forms appear so unsubstan- 
tial, so ethereal, that one might almost fancy it 
possible to pass through them without resistance. 
I happened to be alone when I first witnessed this 
singular and beautiful phenomenon ,; and having 
communicated it to some friends who were with 
me at Killarney, we several times walked down 
to the lake when the state of the atmosphere 
seemed propitious ; but being frequently disap- 



50 Station Q.^-Aghadoe. 

pointed in our hopes of beholding it, my descrip- 
tion began to pass for the mere creation of fancy : 
at last, however, the mountains put on this magi- 
cal aspect, and incredulity instantly gave place 
to admiration and delight. This appearande is 
very transient, continuing only for about ten mi- 
nutes, whilst the sun approaches the earth and is 
sinking below the horizon. The mountains on 
which it is observable areTomies, and those which 
lie next to it in the chain towards the west." 



••>••>••►••► >©<<..<•.«••<•> 



51 



FLESK BRIDGE. 
A little beyond Violet Hill, there is a bridge 
over the river Flesk, which rises on the mountain 
so often mentioned, and, flowing through a valley 
and round Drumhoomper Hill, passes under this 
bridge, and glides away into the Lower Lake. 
Every fall of rain, and almost every heavy 
shower, causes a correspondent fluctuation in the 
waters of the Flesk — so that the ridge of stones, 
a little below the bridge, (over which the stream 
merely murmurs in summer,) is occasionally quite 
covered, and breaches are frequently the result 
when the floods are much swollen. The views 
from the bridge are amusing, rather than grand 
or beautiful. Sometimes the walls of Ross Cas- 
tle appear completely white, and form a pictu- 
resque contrast to the sombre colouring of Glena, — 
while, at other times, their gray and gloomy hues 
are strikingly opposed to " the mountain's living 
drapery." 

In the forenoon, gleams of light of a peculiar 
f2 



52 Cahirnane. 

nature, often illumine Glena — originating not so 
much from the coruscations, that flash out between 
the rifts of the clouds, as from the partially dia- 
phanous state of the atmosphere ; and these are 
most frequently seen from the Flesk road. 

Hath Nature then no spirit ? — Look upon 
Yon bursts of rapid light swift glancing o'er 
The bosom of the mountains — they are thoughts 
By Nature in triumphant mood expressed, 
From hill to loftier hill, — o'er many a bright, 
x\nd many a dusky field, — brown heaths and tracts 
Of green and flowery freshness, among which 
The mountain flock is seen : while, higher up, 
Half-way to its proud summit, sits a cloud, 
Reposing? upon yonder towering cliff, 
That rules the wide perspective. — " 

Wills. 

Beyond the bridge, and somewhat on the right, is 
CAHIRNANE, 
the seat of R. T. Herbert ? Esq. Advance 
along the avenue, and pass the house, which, al- 
though low, is roomy and comfortable. The 
straight line of approach serves to set off to ad- 
vantage the beautifully winding course of the 
walks, which intersect this Paradise of sweets. 
What art tries to mimic in less favoured regions 



Cahirnane. 53 

is here presented by nature, in all the superior 
charms of her rich and appropriate garb. One 
might sit for hours before that inimitably luxu- 
riant and diversified bank, imbibing new pleasure 
from every breeze, and every occasional ray that 
transiently illumines it. How gracefully does that 
airy group of ash impend over the rock, at whose 
base the fox-glove bows beneath a weight of 
purple bells, while its sides are luxuriantly clothed 
with lichens of the most varied and gorgeous 
dyes •— 

The living Stains which Nature's hand alone, 
Profuse of Life, pours forth tfpon the Stone ; 
For ever growing ; where the common Eye 
Can but the bare and rocky Bed descry : 
There Science loves to trace her Tribes minute, 
The juiceless Foliage, and the tasteless Fruit; 
There she perceives them round the surface creep, 
And while they meet, their due distinctions keep ; 
Mix'dbut not blended; each its name retains, 
And these are Nature's ever-during stains. 

Crabbe. 

The long, trailing briar, winds round the preci- 
pice in serpentine festoons, and the fern mingles 
with the innumerable diversity of flowering shrubs 

that crown its brow. 

F3 



54 Castlelough Bay. — Station 7. 

In such luxurious plentie of all pleasure, 
It seem'd a second paradise to ghesse, 
So lavishly enricht with nature's threasure, 
That if the happie soules, which doe possesse 
Th' Elysian fields, and live in lasting blesse, 
Should happen this with living eye to see, 
They soon would loath their lesser happinesse, 
And wish to life return'd again to bee, 
That in this ioyous place they mote have ioyance free. 

Fresh shadowes, fit to shroud from sunny ray ; 
Faire lawnds, to take the sunne in season dew ; 
Sweet springs, in which a thousand nymphs did play ; 
Soft-rombling brookes, that gentle slomber drew ; 
High-reared mounts, the lands about to view ; 
Low-looking dales, disloignd from common gaze ; 
Delightfull bowres, to solace lovers trew; 
False labyrinthes, fond runners eyes to daze ; 
All which by nature made did nature selfe amaze. 

Spenser. 
Incline now towards the lake, and approach 

CASTLELOUGH BAY, 

enjoying at every step a new disposition of sce- 
nery. Ascend that high and abrupt rock by an 
easy, winding path, and you will obtain a com- 
pletely novel prospect of the waters. 



Station 7. 
The foreground is that part of the shore next 



Castlelough Bay. — Station 7. 55 

to what is called the Fishery. From our station be- 
ing so little elevated above the water, the level sur- 
face of the lake affords an agreeable resting place 
to the eye, while Glena bursts majestically upon the 
view, over the intricate assemblage of islands south 
of Ross, — whose castle, relieved against the dis- 
tance, breaks the low outline with great effect. 
Aghadoe is seen on the right, and the trees of 
Cahirnane terminate the prospect in that direction; 
but on the left a part of MaDgerton appears, with 
its base hidden by the green hills east of Mucruss. 
Between us and Turk Mountain, we perceive the 
top of the abbey and Mucruss House, with the 
woods and rocky shores of the peninsula stretch- 
ing along to Glena Bay, the view of which is ob- 
structed by the intermediate archipelago. Many 
spots round this station command admirable speci- 
mens of scenery of the low foreground descrip- 
tion, rendered exceedingly interesting by the 
interruptions in the prospect, which the shifting 
positions of the islands with respect to each other 
occasion at every change. 



56 Castlelougk Bay.— Station 7. 

In these landscapes Ross Castle generally forms 
a very prominent feature : but we are frequently 
compelled to lament that absence of all taste, 
which annexed a pile of modernly built barracks 
to the ancient tower, and adulterated the land- 
scape still more by whitewashing them. These 
barracks, unless when in shade, or obscured by 
the humidity of the weather, are always offensive 
to the eye of the observer — nor can they be easily 
omitted in drawings, without the sacrifice of too 
considerable a portion of the mountain scenery, 
as there are very few points of view which admit 
of the introduction of trees to conceal the blemish. 
We may now wander round Castlelough Bay. 
The name is nearly all that remains of the fortress, 
which formerly stood here.* Leaving, therefore, 

* "Nearer to Killarney stands the ruins of Castle- 
Lou^h, built on a rock surrounded by the lake; it 
was entirely demolished in the wars of 164 1 ." — Smith's 
Kerry. 

" The old fortress of Castle-lough stands on an in- 
sulated rock near the head of the bay. Its position 
might have rendered it strong; but it was too much 
limited in extent, to have been a place of great impor- 



Mucruss Abbey. — Station 7. 57 

the antiquary to explore its site, let us direct our 
course towards Mucruss, and — turning a little to 
the right on entering the demesne — approach the 
ruins of its celebrated abbey. 

tance. So completely was it demolished by the par- 
liamentary army, that the few remaining fragments of 
the walls are now scarcely discernible from the rocks 
on which they rest. The name of Castle-lough is at 
present given to a neat little \ ilia belonging to Mrs. De- 
lany, the grounds of which are prettily disposed,"— 
Weld's Killarney. 



58 



MUCRUSS ABBEY 

Is situated on a rising ground, at the distance of 
about a furlong from the lake ; although in 
Walmsley's view the waters are seen close under 
its eastern window, with the slender loop-holes 
reflected on their calm surface. The secluded sanc- 
tity of this place is violated by an ugly palisade, 
which extends all round from the transept to the 
north-western angle of the building, where it is 
met by a high wall, which bespeaks the intrusion 
of modern desecrators on the venerable sanctuary. 
View No. 9 exhibits the prospect under the wes- 
tern door, shewing the nave and arched entrance 
from it to the transept on the right, with the chan- 
cel and eastern window, through a slender Gothic 
arch — four of which (placed at right angles,) sup- 
port the steeple. Under that on the left is the 
passage into the cloister, which forms an area of 
fifty feet square, and has an arched walk all 
round* The west and north sides of the square 
have severally six Saxon arches, while the oppo- 



JV? 7. 




V T H ^"E § T TH E TY OP ?lTCHr? S -A B B E Y 



7V°.G. 




IC^TEEIOIL KFJSOTU'em.IPSS ABBEY. C ILffilSTKB OP ?1Y CMTSS ABBEY. 



flBR Smi/Ji del* 



Mucruss Alley — Station 7. 59 

site sides have only five arches each, which are 
Gothic. The pillars between them are all nearly 
of the same form. At the entrance, and also at the 
opposite angle, there are flights of steps, which 
lead to the upper apartments. We may ascend by 
that at the entrance, and view the dilapidated 
state of the cells and dormitories, overgrown 
with rank grass and saplings. From the embat- 
tled walk round the cloister we obtain glimpses 
of the lake, glittering in chequered brightness 
through the abundant foliage of the trees, — being 
occasionally obliged to push aside the extended 
branches of a noble yew, which grows from 
the centre of the area below, and spreads widely 
in every direction. A view of this venerable 
tree is given in plate No. 10. Grose* states, 



* "though this is commonly now called Mucrus 
Abbey, its old appellation was Ivrelagh, or the Build- 
ing on the Lake. It is in the barony of Magunihy, 
on the margin of Lough Lean, or Lake of Killarney. 
Donald Mac Carty, in the year 1440, founded a 
friary here under the invocation of the Holy Trinity 
for Conventual Franciscans : he repaired it in 1468, a 
few months before his decease. Since that time it has 



60 Mucruss Alley. — Station 7. 

that this abbey was founded by Donald Mac 
Carthy in 1440, for conventual Franciscans, and 
dedicated to the Holy Trinity, — and that it was 
rebuilt in 1 602 : but from an inscription on a 
stone in the wall, near the eastern window at 
the north side of the chancel, we learn that the 

continued the cemetery of the Mac Carty family. Do- 
nald, Earl of Clancare, was interred here, as was 
Patrick, Lord Kerry, the earl's nephew, in 1600. 

it was again repaired in 1602, but afterwards suf- 
fered to decay. The walks are surrounded by a vene- 
rable grove of ash trees, which seem to grow sponta- 
neously from the ruins of the abbey. The choir, 
nave, and steeple are entire, and there are many de. 
cayed tombs. The cloysters are also standing, and 
consist of several Gothic arches of solid marble, which 
inclose a small square, in the centre of which stood a 
remarkably tal| yew-tree ; its spreading branches, like 
a great umbrella, overshadowing the niches of the 
whole cloyster, forming an uncommon and very pictu- 
resque covering. A bell, not many years ago, was 
found in the adjacent lough, and from its inscription it 
appeared to have belonged to this Abbey. A miracu- 
lous image of the Virgin Mary was said to have been 
formerly preserved here. On the dissolution, the site 
and revenues of this house were granted to Capt. 
Robert Collan, who assigned them to Bishop Crosbie." 
— Groses Antiquities of Ireland. 



Mucruss Albey. — Station 7. 61 

repairs were made in 1626. After visiting the 
apartments attached to this part of the edifice, 
descend to the refectory, kitchen, vaults, &c. 
Several of these are piled full of boards, ta- 
ken from the graves while still undecayed, in 
order to make room for fresh coffins; as this 
is a favorite place of interment, and funerals 
are often conducted hither from very great dis- 
tances. This predilection does not arise, as some 
have asserted, from its being considered a place 
of superior sanctity, — but from the inclination of 
the people always to deposit their dead in the ori- 
ginal family burying-ground, and the circum- 
stance — that the whole region is inhabited by few 
who are not united by some tie of consanguinity, 
however faint. Hence, it is by no means strange 
that funerals should be very frequent here, and 
also at Aghadoe, where the same causes operate. 

In the external angle, formed by the nave and 
transept, there is an immense pile of skulls and 
bones of the human skeleton, heaped up in pro- 
miscuous confusion. A large ash tree stands be- 

G 



62 Mucruss Alley. — Station 7. 

side this appalling charnel-house, and waves its 
drooping foliage over it. If the young and the 
thoughtless could pause here without being dis^ 
gusted at the sight, and moralize on the scene be- 
fore them, many an useful lesson might be im- 
pressed on their minds. Those, whose bones are 
here tossed about, undistinguished and unknown, 
once partook of the same state of existence we now 
enjoy, and have only passed away a little earlier 
than ourselves to those regions, where " the wick- 
ed cease from troubling : and" where " the weary 
be at rest." It is in scenes such as this that the 
" solemn night-born adjuration" of the author of 
the Complaint (an extract from which we can- 
not forbear introducing,) assumes its full supre- 
macy over a well regulated mind : 

" By thousands, now, resigning their last breath, 
" And calling thee— wert thou so wise to hear ! 
" By tombs o'er tombs arising ; human earth 
"Ejected, to make room for — human earth; 
" The monarch's terror ! and the sexton's trade' 
" By pompous obsequies that shun the day, 
" The torch funereal, and the nodding flume, 
" Which makes poor man's humiliation proud; 
" Boast of our ruin ! triumph of our dust! 



Mucruss Abbey. — Station 7, 63 

" By the damp vault that weeps o'er royal bones ; 
"And the pale lamp that shews the ghastly dead, 
" More ghastly, through the thick incumbent gloom ! 
' ' Ey visits (if there are) from darker scenes, 
" The gliding spectre ! and the groaning grave ! 
" By groans, and graves, and miseries that groan 
" For the grave's shelter ! By desponding men, 
" Senseless to pains of death, from pangs of guilt ! 
" By guilt's last audit ! By yon moon in blood, 
" The rocking firmament, the falling stars, 
" And thunder's last discharge, great nature's knell ! 
" By Second chaos ; and Eternal night!' — 
Be Wise— Young. 

The situation of Mucruss Abbey is very fine, 
but many of the features are altered which dis- 
tinguished it about forty years ago, when it was 
visited by Mr. Young,* the traveller. At that pe- 

* " From hence entered the garden, and viewed 
Mucruss abbey, one of the most interesting scenes I 
ever saw ; it is the ruin of a considerable abbey, built 
in Henry the Vlth's time, and so entire, that if it 
were more so, though the building would be more per- 
fect, the ruin would be less pleasing ; it is half ob- 
scured in the shade of some venerable ash trees ; ivy 
has given the picturesque circumstance, which that 
plant alone can confer, while the broken walls and 
ruined turrets throw over it 

The last mournful graces of decay, 
G2 



64 Mucruss Abbey. — Station 7. 

riod, the intrusive and ill-judged appurtenance of a 
paling had not yet been erected, — nor had the hand 
of the decorator yet felled a tree, or eradicated a 
weed. There is no beauty in the architecture of 
the exterior — no imposing massiveness in the di- 
mensions of the venerable structure — to justify 
its exposure to the garish eye of day ; but it 
should have been preserved in that sombre soli- 
heaps of skulls and bones scattered about, with net- 
tles, briars, and weeds sprouting in tufts from the loose 
stones, all unite to raise those melancholy impressions, 
which are the merit of such scenes, and which can 
scarcely any where be felt more completely. The 
cloisters form a dismal area, in the center of which 
grows the most prodigious yew tree I ever beheld, in 
one great stem, two feet diameter, and fourteen feet 
high, from whence a vast head of branches spreads on 
every side, so as to form a perfect canopy to the whole 
space ; 1 looked for its fit inhabitant — it is a spot where 

The moping owl doth to the moon complain. 

This ruin is in the true style in which all such build- 
ings should appear ; there is not an intruding circum- 
stance — the hand of dress has not touched it — melan- 
choly is the impression which such scenes should kin- 
dle, and it is here raised most powerfully." — Young s 
Tour in Ireland. 



Grounds of Mucruss. 65 

tude, — that awful and uninterrupted repose, — 
which, while it leads the mind to contemplation, 
elevates and purines the best affections of the 
soul : — 

Is there, a heart that music cannot melt ? 
Alas ! how is that rugged heart forlorn ! 
Is there, who ne'er those mystic transports felt 
Of solitude and melancholy born ? 

Beattie. 

From the deep grove on the south of the Ab- 
bey* we emerge on the 

* Although care has been taken to render the ac- 
count of this celebrated abbey as explicit as possible, 
the following passages, will, it is hoped, not be 
deemed superfluous : — " A ruined church is a common 
object, which, independent of the picturesque beauty 
it may possess, excites little interest ; but the sight of 
a monastery carries us back to distant ages, and gives 
rise to a train of reflection which every mind of sen- 
sibility feels a pleasure in indulging. \Ye remember 
that these places were the asylums of men who, vo- 
luntarily renouncing the seducing pleasures of the 
world, devoted themselves to the services of charity 
and of religion. Hither the aged peasants from the 
neighbouring hamlets flocked, in the hours of sick- 
ness and of affliction, to obtain the advice and conso- 
lation of the ghostly fathers, to crave the boon of cha- 
g3 



66 Grounds of Mucruss. 

GROUNDS OF MUCRUSS, 

and pursue a well kept carriage road through an 
exceedingly rich bordering of shrubs, fine full- 

rity, or implore the blessing of Jleaven on the labours 
of their toiling offspring. Hither, during the ages of 
violence and rapine, those who by inclination were 
disposed to retirement and to ease' could withdraw in 
safety from the dangers of contending factions, and 
demote themselves to the calm and tranquil pursuits of 
literature. These were the sacred retreats of learning, 
where the germs of knowledge were preserved till a 
more genial season bade them spring forth and flourish 
in open day. 1 ' ** The remembrance of what this 
place once was is fresh in the minds of the country 
people ; and many a pious devotee, impressed with a 
fond belief of its sanctity, may he seen before the 
tombs and antient shrines, in deep and earnest prayer. 
The appearance of these poor people, clad in long 
russet garments, prostrated on their knees, and count- 
ing their beads with all the enthusiasm of devotion, is 
quite in character with the solemnity of the scene, and 
calculated to increase the melancholy and religious 
awe which the contemplation of so venerable a ruin is 
likely to inspire." " The vaults and winding passages 
of the abbey are still more gloomy than the cloister : — 

There through thick walls oblique the broken light, 
From narrow loop-holes, quivers to the sight. 

This obscurity adds much to the effect of the ruin, 
and, combined with the stillness and solitude of deep 



Grounds of Mucruss. — Station 8. 67 

grown birches and spreading oaks, intermingled 
with trees of almost all the species which were 
met by the father of English poetry, in his morn- 
ing walk : — 

the Daphene closed vnder rynde 
Grene Laurer, and the holsome Pyne 
The Myrre also, that wepeth euer of kynde 
The Cedres hye, vpright as a lyne 
The Fylberte eke, y* lowe doth enclyne 
Her bowes grene, to the erthe adoun 
Unto her knyght called Demophoun. 

There sawe I eke the freshe hauthorne 
In whyte motley, that so swote doth smel 
Afshe, fyrre, & oke, with many a yong acorne, 
And many a tree mo than I can tel. 

Chaucer. 

s 

retirement, the fragments of monumental grandeur, 
and the frightful spectacles of mouldering mortality, 
forms an association highly calculated to inspire the 
imagination with visionary fears. As you wander on, 
the mind, yielding to the impression of such gloomy 
images, becomes abstracted from this world. The 
shade of every waving branch is converted to a spec- 
tre, and the echoes of the footsteps to the whispering 
of the ideal inhabitants. The startled senses distrust 
their own perception, and the delusion can scarcely be 
dispelled by returning to the cheerful regions of light 
and life." — Weld's Killarney. 



68 Grounds of Mucruss. — Station 8. 

Many luxuriant groups decorate the slopes 
which decline from the upper walk, and continue 
until we reach the smooth lawn, where the house 
of H. A. Herbert, Esq. appears in view. 

Station 8. 
On the right the lake opens beautifully, with 
the point of Glena in the west, and all the grounds 
we have hitherto traversed, forming an amphi- 
theatre in the back-ground : the wooded islands 
and Ross Castle towering ^above them fill up the 
middle space, and the foreground is occupied by 
Sugar Island, and the shore of the peninsula. 
In the opposite direction the margin of the wood- 
ed ground, from which we have just emerged, 
forms a light boundary to the view of Mangerton. 
Colonel Herbert's* house diversifies the tameness 

* The following description of the view, which this 
gentleman's residence commands, is from the pen of 
an ingenious traveller, whose observations are always 
either instructive or entertaining : — " September 27th, 
walked into Mr. Herbert's beautiful grounds, to 
Oroch's hill, in the lawn that he has cleared from 
that profusion of stones which lie under the wall ; the 



Grounds of Mucruss* — Station 8. 69 

of the unvaried swells in the middle distance, 
while the luxuriant foliage behind it appears finely- 
contrasted to Turk Mountain, which lies in a neu- 
tralized blue tint, — and to that circular bend of 
the lake immediately on our right, which reflects 
the azure and silvery brightness of the lightly 
clouded sky. This is a fine assemblage of ob- 
jects, notwithstanding the level verdant area in 



scene which this point commands is truly delicious ; 
the house is on the edge of the lawn, by a wood 
which covers the whole peninsula, fringes the slope at 
your feet, and forms a beautiful shore to the lake. 
Tomis and Glena are vast mountainous masses of in- 
credible magnificence, the outline soft and easy in its 
swells, whereas those above the eagle's nest are of so 
broken and abrupt an outline, that nothing can be 
imagined more savage, an aspect horrid and sublime, 
that gives all the impressions to be wished to astonish, 
rather than please the mind. The Turk exhibits no- 
ble features, and Mangerton's huge body rises above 
the whole. The cultivated tracts towards Killarney, 
form a shore in contrast to the terrific scenes I have 
just mentioned; the distant boundary of the lake, a 
vast ridge of distant blue mountains towards Dingle." 
-—Youngs Tour in Ireland. 



70 Grounds of Mucruss. ^-Station 8. 

front of the house, which is too formal and arti- 
ficial to harmonize with the other features of so 
glorious a picture. 






71 



THE PENINSULA. 

Pass the house, and enter a shady and em- 
bowered avenue at the rere, along which you 
may continue your walk through the whole ex- 
tent of the peninsula. Those who visit Killarney, 
merely to run over as much space as their stay 
will allow— that they may recount upon their re- 
turn the immense variety they have seen — should 
hurry through these grounds (which are not less 
than two miles in length,) with the rapidity of 
mail-coach travelling, — and eye the beauties 
around, as if they were seen flitting past the coach 
window. But such as are endued with a percep- 
tion of the picturesque, and have a feeling for 
the charms of nature, should deviate from the 
regular path, and explore the dells and eminences, 
the beautifully planted lawns and tangled forests, 
which every where abound, — interspersed with 
flowery banks, shrubby thickets, and finely 
clothed rocks, from the fissures of which large 
trees are growing, with the same bloom and lux- 



72 The Peninsula* — Station 9. 

uriance as in the most favoured soil. The super- 
abundance of wood precludes the visitor from 
enjoying the views which might be opened on 
either side ; but he should continue his walk 
(when practicable,) as far as the shores of the 
lakes, where he would be amply compensated for 
the difficulties and obstructions he must have en- 
countered on his progress. Nearly midway to 
Brickeen Bridge lies a small lough, beautifully 
surrounded with lawns, and bordered with full- 
grown trees, — and, a short way beyond it in the 
direction of Turk Lake, there is a beautiful bay, 
which is bounded with marble rocks, and has 
its shore embroidered with a luxuriance of ver- 
dure, to the very edge of the water. 

Station 9. 
We have now a most enchanting view up the 
defile, through which the water flows that forms 
the passage to the Upper Lake. When the wea- 
ther is fine, the cerulean hue of the heavens comes 
softened to the eye through the sultry atmosphere,-^ 
the accumulated masses of clouds are frequently 



The Peninsula. — Station 9. 73 

tinted with a pearly lustre, which overhang the 
distance ; and the broken outlines of the more re- 
mote mountains lend a fine contrast to their forms, 
while the harmony of their hues preserves a de- 
lightful unity of colouring : — 

'Tis beautiful indeed — through parted boughs 
To see the moving clouds darken the sky, 
To mark their many-shifting forms, and tints, 
As slow they pass ; then see the lively blue 
Pure, spotless, like the soul, that hath not known 
Unworthy passions, or, if dimmed awhile, 
Soon shines reclaimed. 

Anster. 

The lovely lake, reposing in peaceful beauty, re- 
flects the sombre shadows of the nearer mountains, 
and the loose, hanging foliage, on the margin of 
Dinas Island, dips into the calm surface of the 
otherwise unruffled expanse. The brightest parts 
of the sky are brought forward even to our feet 
on the clear water, — which, as it grows more shal- 
low and more transparent, exhibits every little 
polished pebble that sparkles on its sandy bot- 
tom. 

It is impossible to avoid reverting again and 



74 The Peninsula. — Station 9. 

again to this enchanting scene, as we hang by the 
tough roots and saplings which enable us to as- 
cend its steep banks, and force our way through 
the thickets which we must pass to regain the 
path. Beyond this fairy cove we enter on grounds 
wooded in a wilder style than any we have yet 
beheld. The trees are not old, or of great 
growth ; but the entire character of the scene is 
uncouth and desolate, — exhibiting no traces of the 
sublime, but only a chaos of rude and savage 
materials confusedly thrown together. Here 
we pass a cottage that has been highly panegy- 
rized by an elegant writer who visited it about 
twenty years ago, but which is now a shapeless 
ruin. On approaching it through the gloomy 
scenery which has just been described, the dis- 
mal appearance of the place suggests the idea of 
its having been once the haunt of desperate free- 
booters, and forcibly recalls the words of the 
poet : — 

Strange — that where Nature loved to trace, 
As if for Gods, a dwelling-place, 
And every charm and grace hath mixed 
Within the paradise she fixed, 



The Penifisula. — Station 9. 75 

There man, enamoured of distress, 
Should mar it into wilderness, 
And trample, brute-like, o'er each flower 
That tasks not one laborious hour; 
Nor claims the culture of his hand 
To bloom along the fairy land, 
But springs as to preclude his care, 
And sweetly woos him — but to spare ! 

Lord Byron. 



«HHH>i§««<m«.<« 



H2 



76 



BRICKEEN BRIDGE. 

Hastening hence, we arrive at the termination 
of the peninsula, which is connected to Brickeen 
Island by a Gothic bridge,* about thirty feet in 
length and twenty in height. A view of this 
bridge is included in the plate we have given 
of the Middle Lake. Examine the surround- 
ing views from every point about it, as they all 
afford delightful prospects. That up Turk Lake 
towards Mangerton, partakes of the sublime, 

* " From these ruins" (those of Mucruss Abbey) 
" we ascended an eminence in the park, called, I 
think, Drum O'Rourke, from which there is a most 
bewitching view of Mucruss, the Lower Lake, and 
the distant mountains that inclose the Upper Lake ; 
the most beautiful Panorama I ever beheld. We af- 
terwards examined the long and narrow peninsula that 
terminates at Brickeen Bridge, making occasional 
deviations to the romantic shores of Mucruss Lake. 
There is too much uniformity in the line of this drive; 
and I think it would admit of great improvement, by 
judicious openings to the bays of each lake, and occa- 
sional paths leading to the most striking parts of the 
shore : some disgusting bogs also should be planted." 
— Sir R. C. Hoares Journal. 



Brickeen Island, — Station 10. 77 

blended with the beautiful, — which characteristics 
prevail alternately, according to the effect of 
light and shade, and the circumstances of the 
atmosphere. 

The walk which now conducts us on through 
BRICKEEN ISLAND 
is hemmed in by thickets, and by narrow banks, 
which expand occasionally into level plats of 
ground, from which finely ramified trees rise in 
beautiful clusters. In several places boles of aged 
oak, fantastically festooned with ivy, overhang 
the road ; and in one spot an old holly impends 
above it, which is so completely enveloped in 
parasitical plants, that it is difficult to determine 
the species of the parent stem. 

Station 10. 

At the extremity of the island there is a grand 

view of the hanging woods that sweep along the 

precipitous side of Glena, which overlooks the bay. 

It is calculated to inspire the mind with noble 

and elevated feelings, — and a character of elegance 
h3 



78 Station 10. 

is superadded to its attractions, by the effect of 
the point of Innisfallen Island, appearing across 
the lake, gracefully adorned with the tall trees 
whose branches form a canopy over it. 

Aghadoe Hill and ruins, are seen in the dis- 
tance ; and the view is delightfully terminated on 
our right, by the rocky cliff of Brickeen, tufted 
with shrubs and underwood. The stony ledge in 
front, with its pebbly walk winding up among 
the bushes, and disappearing at the verdant pro- 
minence, is part of Dinas Island, and not more 
than forty yards distant. The lake is here forda- 
ble, and may frequently be waded after a 
drought, without wetting the knees. Having 
gratified every feeling for the natural landscape, 
under its most diversified forms, we must return 
by the same course we have pursued, until we 
arrive at Mucruss House. Here, turning to the 
right, we ascend through fields of pasturage, 
and continue to traverse them, until at length 
we arrive at a commanding station on the 



Green Hills. — Station 11. 79 

GREEN HILLS.— Station 11. 

" Turk mountain, from this station, appears 
nearly insulated, owing to the denies at each of 
its extremities. One of them affords a passage 
to the river from the upper lake, and through the 
other runs a wild road leading from Killarney to 
Nedheen, a town situated at the head of a large 
estuary of the south-western coast, called Kenmare 
river. The water at the foot of this mountain is 
a part of Turk Lake. The bold promontory 
observable on the near shore of the lake is a re- 
markable mass of marble, whose pale blue 
colour sometimes harmonizes with that of the 
water, sometimes forms a strong contrast to it, 
according as it is influenced by the changes of the 
atmosphere. It remains dark when the lake as- 
sumes a bright silvery hue ; on the contrary, 
when a lowering sky throws a gloom over the 
waves it is as conspicuous for its brightness. 

" The rugged heights to the right of Turk form 
one side of the defile through which the river 
flows from the upper lake. 



80 Green Hills. — Station 11. 

" The water beneath Glena mountain is a part 
of the bay of the same name, on the lower lake, 
between which and Mucruss house are seen the 
woods of the peninsula which separates the mid- 
dle and lower lake. 

" Tomies mountain, which has a double peak, is 
the next in succession to that of Glena ; the others 
of the same chain lie concealed from this point 
of view. 

" The low shore to the right of Tomies moun- 
tain is the most remote part of the lower lake, 
distant from the spectator about six miles. The 
mountains above it overhang the northern shore 
of the bay of Dingle, which opens to the Atlan- 
tic ocean, at the further distance of thirty miles. 

" The different points of land in the middle dis- 
tance, which intercept the view of the remote 
shore of the lake, are islands ; amongst which 
that of Ross appears conspicuous from its cas- 
tle. The hills above these islands are those along 



Green Hills.— Station 11. 81 

the northern shore of the lake." Such is the 
faithful and masterly description of Mr. Weld, 
whose exquisite taste for the charms of nature, so 
conspicuous in his elegant works, challenges the 
admiration of the reader. 



->">''M>*sM«'<M.««. 



82 



THE DEMESNE OF MUCRUSS 

lies between the foot of Turk Mountain and Cas- 
tlelough Bay ; and the peninsula extends from 
the house to the point where Brickeen Bridge is 
interposed between it and the island. Descend- 
ing to the left we pursue a carriage road towards 
Turk Cottage. 

Station 12. 
An uncommonly beautiful view opens on pass- 
ing the cove, formed by the promontory of Din- 
dag, and the opposite point jutting into Turk 
Lake. The expanse of water produces a grand 
and fine effect, from being but a little below the 
eye. The points of the promontories and the 
rocks of Devil's Island stand forward in sim- 
plicity and repose, harmonizing with the calm 
dignity of Turk, — while the misty turretted cliffs 
of the Eagle's Nest, and the long range beyond, 
diversify the scene and enhance its interest. This 
elegant little bay is embellished by a cheerful 



The [Demesne of Mucruss. — Station 13. 83 

islet, which, owing to some unaccountable whim, 
has been denominated " The Goose." From the 
ridge of its southern boundary another view may 
be advantageously taken, of a character quite 
different from the last. 

Station 13. 
Here we behold the summit of Mangerton, re- 
tiring behind a mass of rock, over which the 
stream from the Devil's Punch- Bowl falls. After 
this it branches out into several little mountain 
rills, which are soon lost to the sight ; but, being 
afterwards reunited to the river that flows through 
Turk defile, come thundering over the precipice 
into the chasm below, and flow under the bridge 
which leads to Turk Cottage. A little lower we 
see them augmenting the waters of the Middle 
Lake. Turk rises majestically upon the view, 
and would be truly sublime, if the feelings were 
not distracted by the separate plantations of 
spruce and Scotch fir so distinctly visible from 
this station. The level disposition also of the 
grounds on the left, sloping towards the lake, 



84 The Demesne of Mucrnss. — Station ]4. 

considerably qualifies the abstract idea of gran- 
deur ; and the entire forms a medley of a very 
heterogeneous description. Walk round to the 
bridge and visit Turk Cottage. A rustic and un- 
adorned lodge, in this situation, would harmonize 
admirably with the circumjacent scenery ; even a 
tasteful cottage, built in the old English style, 
would be appropriate ; but flaunting parterres, 
regular gravel walks, and pruned hedges — are 
completely out of character. The multiplied dis- 
quisitions of the learned may have failed to es- 
tablish an accurate idea of true taste, — but, what- 
ever may become of this so frequently mooted 
point, one glance at Turk Cottage is sufficient to 
evince — that the goddess has not chosen to fix her 
habitation there. Let us descend the mountain a 
little, and look over the lake towards Glena. 

Station 14. 
The prospect now becomes really grand, in- 
cluding no feature which could, in the slightest 
degree, detract from its sublimity. Turk rises 
on the left, too mighty to be taken in by the eye, 



Turk Waterfall 85 

until it begins to sink on the distant defile — exhi- 
biting its sides clothed all the way down to the 
water's edge with verdant foliage. The summit 
of Glena towers in mid air, and slopes away to 
the right in feathery masses of re-grown wood, — 
while the forest-covered shores of the grounds of 
Mucruss sweep entirely round the northern boun- 
dary of the lake. 

There is not, perhaps, in the entire region, a 
view of such unmixed grandeur as this — a gran- 
deur which astonishes and delights, without ex- 
citing any of those restless feelings, which fre- 
quently arise in the mind engaged in contemplat- 
ing scenes of greater diversity and extent. We 
return towards the bridge, and enter the wood on 
the right to approach 

TURK WATERFALL. 

As there are cascades of much greater attrac- 
tion at Derricanihy and Tomies Mountains, we 
need make no delay here, but return after ap- 



$6 Turk Waterfall 

preaching close to the spot, and vociferating in 
order to render our observations audible, — content 
with having viewed a spreading sheet of water 
bounding over a mass of black rocks, foaming 
like other waterfalls, and bedewing the surround- 
ing verdure with its hoary spray. A path leads 
from the bridge up the hill, which is well wooded 
with numerous kinds of trees. It is always an 
a greeable ramble, and we issue from it on the road 
v, hich leads to the town of Kenmare. 



'4 : 1 



'*'»>"M>*SX4H«"f" 



12 



87 



SIDE OF MANGERTON. 

The view hen ce has often been highly extolled ; 
but it is one of those unfit for the canvass, owing 
to the multiplicity of its details, and the extreme 
elevation of the point of sight. The features are 
all of such a description as ages will not alter ; 
and they present, at this moment, the exact out- 
lines that Mr. Young enumerated so admirably, 
upon visiting them nearly half a century since. 

This gentleman's account of flip collective sce- 
nery of the lakes, inserted in his agricultural tour, 
is replete with evidences of a pure and cultivated 
taste, — and gave the tone to Mr. Weld's elegant 
and scientific work, as may be inferred from the 
comparison of numerous passages. Young's deline- 
ation of the view of Mangerton, is as follows : — 

Station 15. 

" From this scene of wild magnificence, I 
broke at once upon all the glories of Killarney ; 



88 Side of Mangerton. — Station 15. 

from an elevated point of view I looked down 
on a considerable part of the lake, which gave 
me a specimen of what I might expect. The 
water you command (which, however, is only a 
part of the lake) appears a bason of two or three 
miles round ; to the left it is inclosed by the moun- 
tains you have passed particularly by the Turk, 
whose outline is uncommonly noble, and joins a 
range of others, that form the most magnificent 
shore in the world : on the other side is a rising 
scenery of cultivated hills, and Lord Kenmare's 
park and woods ; the end of the lake at your 
feet is formed by the root of Mangerton, on 
whose side the road leads. From hence I looked 
down on a pretty range of inclosures on the lake, 
and the woods and lawns of Mucruss, forming 
a large promontory of thick wood, shooting far 
into the lake. The most active fancy can sketch 
nothing in addition . Islands of wood beyond 
seem to join it, and reaches of the lake, break- 
ing partly between, give the most lively inter- 
mixture of water : six or seven isles and islets 



Side of Manger ton. — Station 15. 89 

form an accompanyment, some are rocky, but 
with a slight vegetation ; others contain groups 
of trees, and the whole thrown into forms, which 
would furnish new ideas to a painter. Farther 
is a chain of wooded islands, which also appear 
to join the main land, with an offspring of lesser 
ones scattered around. " 



«t+*t-+)§M»i»<t><u 






90 



MANGERTON. 

From this point we strike off eastward into the 
mountain, and follow the guides up Mangerton, 
to the Devil's Punch-Bowl. It would be more 
tedious to describe the route than to climb the 
ascent; and, as it would be useless to attempt 
the latter without an experienced guide, we shall 
suppose ourselves seated (to alleviate our fatigue,) 
on a group of rocks at the entrance of the crater, 
where the stream rises which flows from it down 
the mountain. 

The height of Mangerton, like that of every 
other mountain in the vicinity of the lakes, has 
been very variously estimated. Cur wen asserts 
that it is 2000 feet high ; but Weld allows only 
1500. The Reeks are reckoned 3000 feet high 
by one writer, 3410 by another, and 3695 by a 
third. 



Station 15. 



91 




DEVIL'S PUNCH-BOWL, 



This lake is supplied partly by a small spring 
on one of its sides, but chiefly by the rains and 
fogs that descend upon it. The writer of this 
itinerary once witnessed here a very curious vagary 
of nature, which gave him a great deal of sur- 
prise and amusement A misty cloud played for 
some time on those precipitous cliffs which sur- 
round the basin, frequently dipping over their 
edges, and immediately re-ascending again. The 
peasants distinguish two kinds of these vapours — 
one which does not wet a person, although enve- 
loped by it, and another which drizzles, and 
quickly drenches him to the skin. To whichever 



92 Devil's Punch-Bowl — Station 15. 

of these classes the above belonged, it first per- 
formed a variety of playful gambols, and was 
afterwards completely dispersed by a smart breeze 
which blew directly into the crater. This in- 
creased to a strong gale ; the air became intensely 
cold, and the surface of the lake was greatly agi- 
tated. But the most curious circumstance was 
the effect produced by sudden gusts of wind, 
sweeping over the surface of the water in a 
straight line from side to side, and hurling a wave 
along with a whizzing noise, until it reached the 
farthest rocks. Here it rose in a cloud of spray, 
that formed an eddy in the air among the con- 
flicting currents, which are driven about owing 
to the intricacy of the crags. 

We learn from the guides that the great Charles 
Fox swam round this lake, and that he stands un- 
rivalled in the feat, no succeeding visitor having 
ever performed it. Several have attempted it, 
but have invariably abandoned their enterprize, 



Cairn, — Station 15. 93 

CAIRN.* 

Not far from the summit of the mountain, we 
meet with a heap of stones, similar to those called 

* " Cairns are numerous in this isle, and are com- 
posed of immense conical heaps of stones ; they too 
are sepulchral. Dr. Macpherson is douhtful whether 
the Cairns in the Scottish isles were reared by the 
Norwegians, or old Britains of Caledonia ; by whom, 
I suppose, he means the original Celtes. He adds, 
there are Cairns in Aberdeen and Inverness, and Car- 
narvonshire, w T here the Northerns never penetrated. 
But is not this begging the question ? Ought he not 
to have shewn, what the mode of interment among the 
Celtes was, or what was their particular object in 
these works ? That their religion and customs differed 
widely from those of the Gothic nations, abundant 
proofs have already been alleged. We are ignorant 
of the precise time when the Northerns began their 
invasion of the British isles, when they obtained set- 
tlements, or established a trade with them. There is 
the greatest probability that these things happened in 
ages long antecedent to the light of letters ; and as su- 
perstition is seldom stationary, part of their religion 
might have been communicated and adopted by the 
Celtes in those times. Mr. Whitaker endeavours to 
support Dr. Macpherson, but by a strange mistake, 



g4 Cairn. — Station 15. 

cairns in Scotland, and accumulated in a similar 
manner. About ten years since a peasant, having 
lost his way or experienced some other fatality, 
was found lying dead on this spot. No circum- 
stance led to the least suspicion of his having suf- 

adduces a fact which directly subverts the hypothesis. 
It is the interment of St. Columba under an heap of 
stones, in the sixth century, in the isle of Sky. Now, 
Bede and Adamnan are decisive in their testimony of 
the subjection of the Hebrides to Pictish princes, pre- 
vious to the arrival of Columba in Scotland ; and Bede 
names Bridius as their king, who bestowed the isle of 
Jona on our Irish saint. How much earlier they pos- 
sessed these parts history is silent. However, these 
islanders making cairns, is no weak proof that the 
practice was Gothic, as every stone monument certainly 
was. The Irish, who believed the Giants- Causeway 
to be factitious, called it Claghan na Fomharaigh, or 
the stones of the sea pirates, meaning the Viccingi, or 
northern rovers." — Groses Antiquities of Ireland. 

" The cairns are immense heaps of small stones, 
evidently collected as monuments, and generally on 
or near the spot where some considerable person died 
or is interred. Even at the present day it is looked 
upon by the vulgar, as an act of pious remembrance* 
to collect such a cairn, where any person has been 
filled by accident/' — NeiZson's Irish Grammar, 



Cairn. — Station 16. 95 

fered violence : and, indeed, the commission of a 
murder has scarcely ever occurred throughout the 
whole neighbourhood. However, the peasants 
who pass the spot always throw a stone on the 
heap, in order to commemorate the circumstance ; 
so that, although already very high, it is still 
rapidly increasing. In this quarter very fine whet- 
stones are found. 

Station 16. 

A most extensive view is beheld from the sum- 
mit of the rocks overhanging the crater. To- 
wards the south, the eye is carried along Kenmare 
River to the Atlantic Ocean, with the mountainous 
tract of Iveragh extending to the right, and em- 
bosoming the waters of the Upper Lake. Mac- 
gillicuddy's Reeks, in all their magnificence, the 
mighty Purple Mountain, Derricarnagh, and 
Cromagloun, constitute the majestic amphitheatre 
which surrounds it, among the glens and gullies 
of which we descry numerous cataracts, winding 



96 Cairn.— Station 16. 

their way to the reservoir, and increasing in their 
progress towards it. 

Turk Mountain, which generally seems higher 
than Mangerton when viewed from the lakes or 
their vicinity, is now completely below us, — and, 
shining from behind its eastern side, part of the 
Middle Lake gleams forth, " writhing like a 
green serpent." The shores of Mucruss wind 
along to the bay of Glena, — -and towering above 
it are seen a varied range of mountains, which trend 
away towards the coast of Dingle — with their un- 
dulating swells, their woods, and recesses. The 
Lower Lake displays a large sheet of silvery 
light, variegated with rocks, islands, promonto- 
ries, and bays, and environed with low shores, 
and cultivated enclosures, rising gently into small 
hills, which form a semi-circle around it. 

Further to the north, we behold the noble 
mountains which overhang the bay of Tralee ; 
while, beyond them, and more directly north- 



Cairn.— Station 16. 97 

ward, hedge-rows and other boundaries of pro- 
perty extend, and fade away beyond the limits 
of unassisted vision. The paps and hills which 
approximate to the county of Limerick rise to- 
wards the east, and Glenflesk joins the ridge on 
which we are now stationed. The little lake we 
perceive at their junction is Lough Catan ; 
and the fearful chasm which cleaves the moun- 
tain immediately on our right, is called Glen- 
na-Copul. The satisfaction to be derived from a 
prospect so extensive is much enhanced by the 
aid of a good glass, with which tourists should 
take care to be provided, — as views of this descrip- 
tion create universal interest, and are so numerous 
in this mountainous district that a telescope be- 
comes indispensably necessary. — It is proper to 
observe — that hitherto the scenery has been des- 
cribed as if seen in fine bright weather, without 
even the intervention of a casual shower ; few, 
however, that visit these elevated regions are so 
fortunate as to escape their usual attendants — 
" vapours, and clouds, and storms :" — and fair as 



98 Cairn.— Station 16. 

the morning may be, parties should always carry 
along with them the means of protection against 
a change. 

While engaged in the contemplation of such 
scenery as we have been describing, it would re- 
quire but little enthusiasm to sympathize with that 
burst of feeling which dictated the following 
lines : — 

" Oh ! what a joy it were, in vigorous health, 
To have a Body (this our vital Frame 
With shrinking sensibility endued, 
And all the nice regards of flesh and blood) 
And to the elements surrender it 
As if it were a Spirit ! — How divine, 
The liberty, for frail, for mortal man 
To roam at large among unpeopled glens 
And mountainous retirements, only trod 
By devious footsteps ; regions consecrate 
To oldest time ! and, reckless of the storm 
That keeps the raven quiet in her nest, 
Be as a Presence or a Motion — one 
Among the many there ; and, while the Mists 
Flying, and rainy Vapours, call out Shapes 
And Phantoms from the crags and solid earth 
As fast as a Musician scatters sounds 



Cairn. — Station ]6. 99 

Out of an instrument ; and, while the Streams — 
(As at a first creation and in haste 
To exercise their untried faculties) 
Descending from the region of the clouds, 
And starting from the hollows of the earth 
More multitudinous every moment, rend 
Their way before them — what a joy to roam 
An Equal among mightiest Energies ; 
And haply sometimes with articulate voice, 
Amid the deafening tumult, scarcely heard 
By him that utters it, exclaim aloud 
Be this continued so from day to day, 
Nor let it have an end from month to month !" 

Wordsworth. 



k3 



100 Station 17. 

KENMARE ROAD TO K1LLARNEY. 

If the ascent hither have been commenced early 
in the day, there may be time to take a leisurely 
survey of the returning route ; but the task is at- 
tended with considerable fatigue, and the objects 
which come under inspection are so vast and so 
varied, — that little inclination is left in the mind for 
the less obtrusive scenes to be met with on the 
way back to Killarney. 

Station 17. 

There is one view, however, which must be 
contemplated with pleasure under any circum- 
stances. It is seen from a turn in the road, oppo- 
site to the gate that leads into the grounds of Mu- 
cruss, at the village of Cloghereen. Look 
towards Mangerton, and you will see the ravine 
between it and Turk Mountain, occupying the 
back ground. The effect produced by a valley, 
which lies between these and the middle distance, 



Kenmare road to Killamey.— Station 17. 101 

confers a high degree of interest on the diversity 
of wood which is thrown out in relief by it. The 
road winds beautifully towards the little bridge 
of the village, and the picturesque gables of two 
or three cottages on the right, harmonize admira- 
bly with the thick groves, which shade the grounds 
of Mucruss. A little stream heightens the attrac- 
tions of this fine prospect. 

How sweet and solemn at the close of day, 

After a long and lonely pilgrimage 

Among the mountains, where our spirits held 

With wildering fancy and her kindred powers 

High converse, to descend as from the clouds 

Into a quiet valley, fill'd with trees 

By Nature planted, crowding round the brink 

Of an oft-hidden rivulet, or hung 

A beauteous shelter o'er the humble roof 

Of many a moss-grown cottage ! 

Wilson. 

The scene would be perfect in its kind, if it 
were not deformed by the intrusion of a newly 
erected mill, whose sharp right angles considera- 
bly mar the effect,— but which is luckily so situ- 
ated as to be easily omitted in a sketch. The 
K 3 



102 Kenmare road to Killarney. — Station 17. 

carriage way through Mucruss also appears for a 
moment, but is almost immediately lo^t beyond 
two graceful ash trees, whose branches meet 
above it and form a verdant arch. Regularity is 
inimical to picturesque effect ; however, this 
smooth walk and its neat appurtenances, just 
glancing upon the view and then vanishing, is 
one of the most agreeable features in the entire 
picture. The blue tops of the mountains, seen 
beyond the green trees, — and the serene expanse of 
the firmament above, — assume a character of soft- 
ness, the unity of which would be broken by the 
admixture of any thing harsh or abrupt, but 
which is finely opposed to the wild and savage 
scenery occupying the left of the view. Contrast 
is the great and universal agent which heightens 
almost all our enjoyments, and the president Du- 
paty has, in the following words, forcibly insisted 
on its being the source of distinctness and variety : — 
" Contrasts alone display what has but just ap- 
peared, and objects which would otherwise 
barely discover themselves to us ; they alone de- 



Ketimare road to Killamey. — Station IS.. 103 

tach the multitude of beings from the uniform 
ground of space, and separate, terminate, and 
distinctly illuminate them. Without contrasts, 
the whole universe would be merely one single 
existence." — Letter LIX. 

This road to Killamey would be called a de- 
lightful drive in any other place than this, where 
the most luxuriant diversity of enchanting sce- 
nery is so lavishly spread abroad. — Several views, 
similar to those we enjoyed from the grounds 'of 
Cahirnane, break in upon us while passing the 
road opposite toCastielcugh Bay, — but, nearer the 
town, our way is shut in by high walls until we 
arrive at Flesk Bridge. 

Station 18. 

The prospect hence up the river (which was 
omitted to be noticed before crossing the Flesk,) 
is sometimes very striking. The peak of Flesk 
Mountain tapers gracefully over the ridge of 
Drumhoomper Hill, on which Mr. Cottman's 



104 Kenmare road to Killarney. — Station 18. 

castle, a very noble object, is situate. The glen 
through which the Flesk runs is admirably de- 
fined, receding between the wooded brow of 
Violet Hill and the heights on our right. The 
trees, which fringe the banks of the stream on the 
fore-ground, add great richness, finish, and effect. 

Continuing to proceed homewards to Killarney, 
we leave the road which leads to Ross on our 
left,— and, immediately after, the lawn in front of 
Lord Kenmare's house, which advances upon the 
road that winds round into the town. 



••HMH§M«' 



105 



KENMARE HOUSE. 

This mansion, although possessed of no exter- 
nal features of nobleness or grandeur, is extensive 
and commodious. It is impossible to resist smil- 
ing at the trimly-shorn hawthorns which are dis- 
posed in front, like so many wig-blocks on a 
green carpet — a simile which is most appropri- 
ate in the months of May and June, when nature 
confers upon them a luxuriancy of curls. This 
instance of taste announces the style in which 
the pleasure-grounds behind the house are laid 
out, which have already been described. We 
must not omit mentioning — that the utmost civi- 
lity is uniformly experienced from every member 
of his lordship's household. 



106 Station 19. 

ROAD FROM KILLARNEY TO ROSS. 

The great thoroughfare to the principal scenery 
of the lakes, of Mucruss, and of Mangerton, lies 
through the southern end of the Main Street, and 
passes Lord Kenniare's house ; after which a 
straight road, lined to some extent with well-grown 
lime-trees, leads over Flesk Bridge. But the 
course which we now pursue turns suddenly to the 
right, and conducts us a considerable distance 
before any striking object meet the eye. Those 
possessed of leisure, and who have not yet beheld 
any of the scenery described in the preceding 
pages, should turn a little into the field opposite 
to the iron gate of Lord Kenmare's grounds, and 
take their station at the place where Mr. Galway 
has planned a cottage, which can readily be 
pointed out. 

Station 19. 
A panoramio view is obtained hence, which is 



Road from Killarney to Ross. — Station 19. 107 

nearly confined to the foreground (where we enter 
the field,) but takes in Killarney, Violet- Hill, 
and Flesk road. Beyond this it opens far away 
upon the lower ridge of Mangerton,which rises to- 
wards the west, and meets the triply-angled Turk. 
Between Turk and Glena appears the entrance to 
the EJpper Lake, with that part of the mountains 
which surrounds it. On the west of Glena, Tomies 
and the smaller hills lessen towards the Lower 
Lake, and are confronted on the opposite side of 
the water by the gradually increasing eminences 
which lie in the direction of Aghadoe. The 
wooded steep, advancing across on the lake to our 
right, is part of the West Domain, where we took 
our first view ; and the nearer ground below it, 
running into the lake, is Reen Point. The islands 
adjoining, and increasing in number towards the 
left, are Innisfallen, Ross, &c. ; and the planted 
grounds still further on are those of Cahirnane, 
situate beyond the Flesk, which we see winding 
it* way into the lake. 



108 Road from Killarney to Ross. — Station 19. 

The woodland shores of Mucruss appear to 
belong to the base of Turk Mountain, but are at 
least a mile nearer, — forming a peninsula, between 
which and the mountain are the waters of the 
Middle Lake. There is a sort of fatality attend- 
ing the situation of almost all the seats about 
Killarney. They are either too elevated for 
effect, or so completely secluded as not to com- 
mand any view whatever. Mr. Galway has 
evinced great taste in his choice of a situation, 
which commands a view of those beautiful ap- 
pearances that are generally disclosed, in the 
morning, along the amphitheatre commencing at 
Flesk Mountain, and continuing along the range 
described. These have been more fully detailed at 

a preceding station. 

Morn on the mountains ! O, how sweet 

To catch the first, romantic flow 
Of rays that, beautiful and fleet, 

Come down to light this world of woe. 

WlFPEN. 

The endless variety of appearances under 
which Glena and Tomies are seen, and which 



Ross Castle.— Station 19. 109 

cannot escape the notice of the most heedless ob- 
server, are completely commanded from this sta- 
tion, — and the sunset effects already described are 
visible hence in all their glory. Proceeding for- 
ward we pass a straggling hamlet, and traverse a 
bog where the way is screened by a row of fine 
birch trees. At a turn of the road we come in 

view of 

ROSS CASTLE. 

According to Grose, this fortress was founded at 

an early period by a chieftain named O'Donoghue, 

and must have been a place of considerable 

strength.* 

* " Ross Castle was originally constructed by the 
ancient powerful sept of the O'Donoghoes, was flanked 
by round towers, and was of considerable strength. 
In 1641, General Ludlow, attended by Lord Brog- 
hill and Sir'Hardress Waller, summoned it, when the 
garrison surrendered. At present there are a few dis- 
mounted guns to be seen, and a barrack for two com- 
panies of foot. The governor of Ross Castle has been 
an officer on the military establishment for some years. 
Few places exhibit more magnificent views of nature 
or such delightful picturesque scenes than those to be 
seen from Ross Castle, in the Lake of Killarney." — 
Grose's Antiquities of Ireland. 



i 



110 Ross Castle.— Station 19. 

Little of its history is preserved ; however, from 
General Ludlow's account of his proceedings in 
Ireland during the interregnum, it must have cost 
him great trouble to reduce it. After investing it, 
in 1641, with four thousand foot and two thousand 
horse, he discovered that Lord Muskerry (who 
commanded five thousand horse and foot in the 
garrison,) was supplied with provisions, which 
were conveyed across the lake (perhaps from the 
neighbourhood of Dinas),— and accordingly sent 
a detachment of soldiers "to cut off his adherents. 
Finding, however, that he cxmld not make the 
desired impression unless by water, he ordered 
boats to be sent round from the sea ; which it 
must have cost immense toil to transport to the 
lake, as he states them to be capable of contain- 
ing a hundred and twenty men each. On an in- 
dication of assault being made with one of the 
boats, the commander of the fortress offered to 
capitulate : jet a fortnight elapsed before the ar- 
ticles were finally signed ; and the general seems 



Ross Castle.— Station 19. 1 11 

to have waited the result with very great pa- 
tience.* 

The oldest parts of the castle are the square 

* Here follow the conditions of the surrender in 
the general's own words : — ' The articles were the 
same in effect with those granted to the Irish in Leins- 
ter and other places. But much time was spent in 
the discussion of some particulars, especially that con- 
cerning the murder of the English, which was an ex- 
ception we never failed to make : so that the Irish 
commissioners seeming doubtful, whether, by the 
wording that article, they were not all included, de- 
sired that it might be explained ; to which we consent- 
ed ; and it was accordingly done. They also made it 
their request, that, instead of that article relating to 
their real estates, whereby they were to enjoy such a 
part as should be allotted to them by the qualifications 
to -be agreed upon, it might be expressed, that they 
wholly submitted to the mercy of the parliament 
therein. The exercise also of their religion was ear- 
nestly insisted upon by them : but we refused to oblige 
ourselves to any thing in that particular; declaring 
only, that it was neither the principle or practice of 
the authority which we served, to impose their way of 
worship upon any by violent means. With these ex- 
planations, the commissioners, after a fortnight's de- 
bate, concluded the agreement, the Lord Muskerry 
and myself confirming it. His son, with Sir Daniel 
O Bryan, were delivered to me as hostages for the 
l2 



112 Estuary of Flesk River.— Station 19. 

tower, the rampart, and the flanking towers, which 
were erected at each end of it for the purpose of 
defending the only quarter accessible by land. 
Since the barracks were constructed, several 
smaller buildings have been added as habitations 
for the retainers who are engaged about the gar- 
rison, which is still occupied by a company of 
men, and is the sinecure of a nominal governor. 
A narrow channel divides the island from the 
main shore, across which there is a bridge, with 
the parade of a guard-house attached to it. Under 
this bridge there is a passage for boats, and a con- 
venient communication with Mucruss and Glena 
Bay, through which we continue our course, and 
beyond it enter the space bounded by the 

SHORES AT THE ESTUARY OF FLESK 
RIVER. 

The shelving shore, and an elegant assemblage of 

groves, islands, and rocks, here open on the view. 

The grounds on either side of the estuary are flat, 

performance of the articles. In consequence of which 
about 5000 horse and foot laid down their arms, and 
surrendered their horses.' 1 — Ludlow's Memoirs. 



Estuary of Flesk River. — Station 19. 113 

and fenced into fields, but the wooded borders of 
Cahirnane form an interesting boundary. Nothing 
is superior to the diversity of foregrounds, which 
vary at every advance we make among the en- 
compassing islands. " A drawing should not be 
made from the lowest point possible ; as, for in- 
stance, from the lake itself— for then a foreground 
would be wanting. On this account when I sailed 
on Derwentwater I did not receive so much 
pleasure from the superb amphitheatre of moun- 
tains around me, as when, like Mr. Gray, 1 
traversed its margin ; and I therefore think he 
did not lose much by not taking boat." — See 
Mason's edition of Gray's Works. Mr. Mason's 
objection to the English lakes, that they do not 
supply foregrounds to the surrounding scenery 
when viewed from a boat, is a standing evidence 
of their inferiority to those of Killarney, — which, 
in this respect, possess an incalculable advantage 
over the lakes in the north of England, in the 
west of Scotland, or, perhaps, in any other part 
of the world. 

l3 



114 Estuary of Flesk River. — Station 19. 

The islands here are so numerous, and so de- 
lightfully varied, that they produce an unceasing 
succession of new pictures — imparting to one 
another increased interest and additional charms, 
and exhibiting in miniature a scene similar to 
that, which called forth the beautiful apostrophe 
commencing with the following lines : — 

Fair clime ! where every season smiles 
Benignant o'er those blessed isles, 
Which, seen from far Colonna's height, 
Make glad the heart that hails the sight, 
And lend to loneliness delight. 
There mildly dimpling — Ocean's cheek 
• Reflects the tints of many a peak 
Caught by the laughing tides that lave 
These Edens of the eastern wave. 

Lord Byron. 



THE ARBUTUS. 

Among these islands it gratifies curiosity to ex- 
amine that in which is the largest arbutus now 
remaining. Mr. Curwen found the trunk " eight 
feet in girth for a few feet above the ground, where 
it divides into several stems ; each of which had 
a bushy head, but otherwise bare of leaves :" and 



Estuary of Flesk River. — Station 19. 115 

he asserts that it is curious but not beautiful. 
It is equally curious to consider why the arbutus 
should be spoken of, as constituting such a pro- 
minent feature in the scenery of the lakes. A 
lady on a sailing party, being exceedingly desirous 
to have this shrub pointed out, was desired to 
pitch on that which best answered the descrip- 
tion. After viewing several of the wooded shores, 
and feeling somewhat embarrassed in making her 
election, she decided in favour of a very beautiful 
alder that sprung from the water's edge in full 
luxuriance of foliage, but which bore neither 
blossoms nor berries. On being undeceived, and 
having the true plant pointed out to her, she 
could hardly be convinced that a bare pale-red 
stem, increasing in thickness for a few feet from 
its root, and then diverging into a number of 
branches — the upper twigs of which were hung 
with a few scattered leaves — could possibly be 
the renowned arbutus ; — and yet, such is the ex- 
act description of almost every plant of the kind 
to be seen in those regions. While young and 



116 Estuary of Flesk River. — Station 19. 

healthy it forms a fine feature in a shrubbery, — 
but, when it has attained a certain age, it becomes 
formal and stiff, and forfeits every pretension to 
a picturesque character. The circumstance of its 
fruit and flowers hanging together on the same plant 
is its only attraction, and it is indigenous in many 
parts of the counties of Kerry and Cork, as well 
as at Killarney. In Irish it is called Auonlleean 
and Oolacahine* 



*"arbute, or Strawberry tree Hih. Keeora Caihne, the 
fruit is uhla Caihne, Lat. Arbutus. This is a small tree, not 
much bigger than a Quince tree, the body thereof is co- 
vered with a reddish bark, which is rough and scaly, the 
Leaves are, broad, thick, and serrated, the flowers are 
white, small, & grow in clusters, after which cometh 
the fruit like Strawberries, green at first, but afterward 
yellowish, and at last red when ripe. It flowereth in 
Spring and the fruit is ripe in Winter. This tree 
grows naturally in the County of Kerry, and is ma- 
nured in Gardens, It grows in the Lord Kingston's 
Garden in Mitchelstown. The fruit of this Tree is of a 
cold nature, hurteth the Stomach, and causeth the 
head-ach." — KEogh's Botanalogia, 

11 This aboriginal beautiful ever-green of Greece is 
how unequivocally ascertained to be indigenous in that 



Station 19. Wk 

THE ARCHIPELAGO. 

The rock that is so conspicuous amid the clus- 
ter of islands which meet our view on rowing out 
from Ross Bridge, is called O'Donoghue's Table. 
The broad surface is elevated considerably above 
the water ; but its central support, being exposed 
to the incessant chafing of the waves, is impercep- 
tibly but gradually wearing away. When the 
weather is foggy, or when partial clouds descend 
to the surface of the lake, the woods and islands 
occasionally bursting upon the sight have a very 
fine effect ; and the sudden appearance and dis- 
appearance of the various features of the land- 
scape are highly picturesque. Sometimes, even 
in clear weather, a breeze sweeps up the lake, 

part of the county Kerry, called Killarney ; it deco- 
rates the fascinating lakes of this enchanting spot, 
hanging from the crevices of the seemingly barren 
limestone rocks in the greatest state of luxuriance and 
beauty, with hardly any earth about its roots. I am 
told that it is to be met with at Glongariff, and in all the 
mountainous situations to the west of Bantry bay, 
county Cork."*— JVades Plants Rariorqs. 



IIS The Archipelago. — Station 19. 

succeeded by a pelting shower, which gradually 
obscures every object until the whole surrounding 
scene become enveloped. It then clears off, and 
every thing re-appears in the same order. After 
being sufficiently gratified with the islands of the 
Archipelago, we row to the upper part of Cas- 
tlelough Bay, and then to Mucruss. 



><<l* <*■**•♦ 



Station 19. 119 

SHORES OF MUCRUSS. 

In sailing along the northern margin of the 
peninsula, a succession of the most delightful 
views almost cloys the observer, except where 
the white barracks of Ross Castle obtrude upon 
the eye. The rocks of this shore are finely bro- 
ken, and worn away by the waters dashing 
against them. When the lake is agitated by the 
winds* the waves beat with great violence against 
their rocky barriers, and tower in finely feathered 
masses of silvery spray. A considerable bay 
runs in towards Mucruss House, in which Sugar 
Island occupies a great space, and from which a 
striking prospect may be obtained. A point of 
the peninsula stands out on the left, clothed with 
grassy banks, which bend into flowing lines, and 
intersect each other without any angular forma- 
lity. Farther on is Ash Island, in which the 
rocks and trees are severally distinguishable, a 
circumstance greatly to be prized, as they are ail 



120 Shores of Mucruss. — Station 19. 

highly contrasted, and disposed in the most pictu- 
resque variety. Against the lower end of these 
rocks are the remarkable white stones, which 
bear so close a resemblance to the form of a horse 
as frequently to amount to a deception, when the 
atmosphere is favourable to it. Passing these we 
arrive at Juniper Isle and Otter Rock. We may 
now view the greatest length of surface that is 
any where to be seen on these lakes, without the 
interruption of main land or island. In looking 
down Glena towards Tomies, the unity of effect 
that prevails is highly fascinating. In the bay 
behind Otter Rock some of Lord Kenmare's boats 
are constantly moored ; and they could not be 
kept in more secure and appropriate anchorage, 
— as the promontory of Camillan, the islands, 
and the opposite point, protect them from every 
Wind by which they could be affected. 



Station 19. 121 



GLENA BAY. 



But the chief of all the views on the Lower 
Lake — that which seems to give the most univer- 
sal satisfaction, and to command the most unquali- 
fied admiration, — is the prospect which opens down 
the bay of Glena, beyond Camillan. This scene 
called forth all the powers of Mr. Weld's pen, 
and cannot be more admirably delineated than in 
the following picture which he gives of it : — 
" This is one of the magnificent scenes which 
captivates every eye ; and which, if Killarney 
were divested of every other charm that at pre- 
sent attracts the stranger to her shores, would, in 
itself amply compensate for the toils of travers- 
ing the dreary and rugged country, through 
which alone the lake can be approached. On 
one side, rising from the water's edge, appears a 
steep mountain, from whose brow 

Th' embowering forests overhang the deep ; 

on the opposite one a chain of low rocks sur- 
M 



122 Glena Bay.— Station 19. 

mounted with trees ; and in the centre, at a dis- 
tance, is seen the entrance of the defile, through 
which the river from the upper lake flows into the 
head of the bay. The length of the bay is about 
one English mile ; its breath nearly the same ; but 
owing to the numerous inlets and promontories 
with which the shore is indented, its extent ap- 
pears considerably greater. At the base of the 
mountain, along the margin of the lake, the indi- 
vidual forms of the branching oaks are distinctly 
seen; but the trees which rise above these grow 
so closely together, that their united foliage forms 
an impervious and continuous shade,, swelling 
w r ith the protuberances of the mountain, or sink- 
ing with its glens, and interrupted alone by sudden 
precipices or huge projecting rocks. From the 
mouth of the bay to the most distant part of the 
horizon, along the windings of the defile, all is 
one sylvan scene : 

Shade above shade, a woody theatre 
Of stateliest view. 

Every gradation of green is observable in these 



Glena Bay.— Station 19? .123 

woods during summer, from the silvery hues of 
the ash and willow to the deep verdure of the 
fir and yew ; and in autumn, when they are en- 
riched by colours " whose beauty cheers the ap- 
proach of the inclement season they forebode," 
the variety of the foliage, and the brilliant reflec- 
tion of the innumerable tints upon the water, sur- 
pass all description. 

Within the forest, at a short distance from the 
water, there is a wild path amongst the rocks, 
leading from the point of Glena to a cottage at 
the head of the bay. In following its devious 
course, the eye is bewildered amongst the ro- 
mantic beauties of the scene, whether it penetrates 
the gloomy recesses of the woods beneath the 
rocky cliffs of the mountain, or, from the verge 
of the glens, surveys the distant prospect of the 
lake and islands, above the trees which are sunk 
in the hollows. Innumerable rills fall in cascades 
from the mountain height, sparkling 

Within the twilight of the distant shade : 
m2 



124 Glena Bay.— Station 19. 

these, as they descend through the forest, unite 
into larger streams ; and tumbling over rocks 
covered with moss, and decayed trees which have 
fallen across their course, run roaring into the 
lake." ' 

After passing Gun Rock, a narrow inlet opens 
on the left, dividing Brickeen Island from the 
peninsula which terminates here. The rocks are 
steep, and thickly shaded with trees and under- 
wood. At the farther side Stone Bridge stretches 
across the opening, and serves for a passage from 
the island to the grounds of Mucruss. As we 
glide along, Turk Mountain appears to move 
finely over the bridge, and through the scattered 
trees that approach on either side: and when 
boats are seen through it, lightly skimming along, 
they confer an additional interest on this attractive 
scene. 



Station 19. 125 



MUSIC, 



The want of appropriate music to elicit the 
magical effect of the echoes was long expe- 
rienced at the lakes. This deficiency is, however, 
now completely remedied ; — and instead of the in- 
efficient sounds of the hautboy, and the discor- 
dant tones of itinerant tiddlers — the powerful 
Kent bugle, so admirably calculated to call forth 
the fullest powers of reverberation, is played in 
a masterly style by Spellan, and his brother, — who 
reside in Killarney during the season, for the ac- 
commodation of such parties as are desirous of 
partaking of this additional enjoyment. Expe- 
rience has rendered the former of these musicians 
intimately acquainted with every station at which 
the finest effects are to be obtained ; and visitors 
are always highly pleased with his polite and un- 
assuming deportment, while they are gratified 
with his superior skill, which when fully exerted 

almost realizes the vivid description of the poet :— 
M 3 



126 Music—Station 19. 

still the dingle's hollow throat 
Prolonged the swelling bugle-note. 
The owlets started from their dream, 
The eagles answered with their scream, 
Round and around the sounds were cast, 
Till echo seemed an answering blast. 

Walter Scott. 

A cottage at the further end of the bay has 
long been used as a refectory by such company 
as intend to dine abroad during their excursion ; 
and salmon from the adjoining lake is an indis- 
pensable ingredient of the repast. In many other 
places, the custom of roasting a whole salmon, in 
the open air, is considered as adding highly to 
the enjoyments of rural parties of pleasure. But 
here it is* accompanied with the additional cir- 
cumstance of being done on the boughs of the 
arbutus ; which, as it is pretended, produces a 
peculiarity of flavour, such as the fish is never 
ound to possess when treated in any other manner. 



Station 20. 127 



MIDDLE LAKE. 



We now row by the mouth of the narrow pas- 
sage which conducts to the river in the defile. 
Coasting Dinas Island on our right, we double 
the projecting extremity of Brickeen Island, and 
proceed into the Middle Lake, which is seen in 
its greatest extent, when we reach the central 
point between Brickeen Bridge and the extremity 
of Dinas Island. Between this and Turk Moun- 
tain, the waters of the strait rush into the Upper 
Lake with considerable impetuosity. We row 
towards some insulated rocks near the bridge, 
and halt a short distance behind them 

Station 20. 

The bridge is on the left of the foreground, — 
and, beyond it, several small points of the penin- 
sula of Mucruss jut out into the lake, concealing 
its form and the extent of its surface. Above the 
trees, which grow thiekly on these rocky banks, 



128 Middle Lake.— Station 20. 

the point of Glenfiesk is seen in the remote back- 
ground. Towards the right, the side of Man- 
gerton sinks behind Turk, — while, between them, 
the woods about the waterfall occupy the far- 
ther boundary of the lake. 

Turk is a noble object, with its young trees 
shooting up in full luxuriance, — sometimes spring- 
ing from the grassy brows of the grey rocks, — 
sometimes hanging from their fissures— and seem- 
ing to thrive notwithstanding the want of soil. 
The flickering effect of passing clouds, as ' fre- 
quently seen on this lake, is attempted in the 
sketch : but it assumes its grandest aspect when 
the tempest comes sweeping over the obscured 
peek of Turk, and the agitated waters are dashed 
into foam against the craggy shores. This lake, 
however, is not so liable to be disturbed by the 
wind as either of the others. It is well fenced 
against the gusts that often visit the Lower Lake 
with unexpected violence, and constitute almost 
the only danger that attends their navigation. 



Middle Lake.— Station 20. 129 

The general use of sail-boats has been, owing to 
the frequency of these visitations, wisely laid 
aside ; although in fine settled weather, during 
which such squalls rarely occur, sails are occa- 
sionally hoisted, and give an additional and 
lively interest to the scene. A fine sunny day is' 
the most propitious for boating on the Middle 
Lake, and exploring its shores. We examine the 
quarry,* which was formerly worked, and pro- 
duced white, red, green, and brown-veined mar- 
bles. We also visit the copper-mines which were 
likewise once worked, but unfortunately with little 
judgment. The sale of the ore raised, produced 
a sum amounting to £25,000, but, the water 

* " The quarry is a shore of rocks, which surround 
a bay of the lake, and forms a scene, consisting of 
but few parts but those strongly marked; the rocks 
are bold, and broken into slight caverns ; they are 
fringed with scattered trees, and from many parts of 
them wood shoots in that romantic manner, so common 
at Killarney. Full in front Turk mountain rises with 
the proudest outline, in that abrupt magnificence 
which fills up the whole space before one, and closes 
the scene." — Young's Tour in Ireland. 



130 Turk Mountain. —Station 20. 

being let in on the shafts, the concern was entirely 
abandoned. We proceed onward through the 
lake, which is nearly of equal breadth throughout 
its whole extent of more than two miles. Devil's 
Island succeeds in order. It is a very beautiful 
object, containing romantic rocky shores, perfo- 
rated with caverns, and adorned with hanging 
trees. Indeed, the vicinity of the deeply indented 
margin of Mucruss renders all this quarter highly 
interesting and picturesque. Here the tourist 
should take a direction round the upper end of 
the lake, by the estuary of the stream which 
issues from Turk Waterfall, and— if Turk Cot- 
tage and the circumjacent scenery have not pre- 
viously been visited— land here for that purpose. 
Turn down under the base of 

TURK MOUNTAIN, 
which rises in proud superiority over masses of 
hanging wood and wild projecting rocks, from 
which mighty fragments have been rent and 
thrown into the lake. When nearly half way, 
we come to the mouth of a precipitous stream. 



Turk Mountain. 131 

that rushes down its rocky channel, and falls into 
the lake. It is denominated the Lein ; and — al- 
though most commonly dried up on account of 
its perpendicular course — it is said to have 
given name to the entire lake, which in Irish is 
called Lough-Lein. Amid the endless variety of 
wonderful narratives which may be heard every 
day from the peasants of Kerry, the story of the 
threeAchagh seems to have obtained universal cre- 
dit. It runs thus. The final extinction of the 
giants having been revealed to three of those who 
lived on the side of Turk, they resolved to pre- 
vent their pigmy posterity from enjoying the fruits 
of the toil they had undergone, in digging the 
neighbouring mines, and amassing their golden 
contents. For this end they deposited all their 
wealth in three mighty crocks,which they lowered 
into the bed of the lake, at the spot where the 
Lein enters it. This tradition worked so strongly 
on the mind of an excellent swimmer, about fifty 
years ago, that he concerted a plan with some of 
his friends for raising the treasure. All things 



132 Turk Mountain. 

being ready, he dived in presence of his compa- 
nions, who waited on the brink, being provided 
with ropes to draw up whatever he should attach 
to them. A few seconds had scarcely elapsed, 
when he re-appeared in the utmost trepidation 
and horror. He ran from the place without being 
able to utter a word, and was speedily followed 
by his astonished friends. When he recovered 
a little composure he declared — that as he was in 
the act of seizing one of the crocks of gold, a 
large and beautiful white greyhound sprang upon 
it, growled with the fiercest aspect, and would 
have devoured him if he had not instantly risen 
to the surface. Thus the enchantment of the 
treasure is firmly established, and no future ad- 
venturer will ever disturb its hallowed repose. 



GLENA MOUNTAIN. 

Station 22. 

Cross over from this place to Brickeen Bridge : 
pass under it, and round the islands which lie at 
the point of Glena. The mountains here assume 
a picturesque grandeur, attended with such wild 
and beautiful accompaniments, as render them 
almost unparalleled. " We had nearly ap- 
proached the opposite side," says Mr. Curwen, 
" when a sudden burst of sunshine pierced the 
gloom, and instantaneously ' the curtain of heaven 
drew up,' and exhibited Glena to our admira- 
tion, in all its majestic grandeur. This gleam of 
light falling exclusively on the mountain, while 
all else remained in obscurity, added a splendid 
solemnity to its appearance. Before us was 
Glena, single and alone, clothed with umbrage- 
ous wood from its base to a considerable eleva- 
tion ; while its upper regions and lofty summit, 
robed with rich purple heath, augmented the fas 



134 Glena Mountain. 

cination by the contrasted colouring of these 
covering mantles. Here sat the smile of beauty, 
there stood the frown of majesty, contending for 
superiority, and disputing which should decide 
the appropriate character of the mountain. The 
deep tints of the purple heath were momentarily 
dimmed by light masses of fog, passing rapidly 
over its summit, or along its side at different 
heights ; conspiring in a singular manner, by the 
alternate light and shade, to beautify the view/' 

Serene and calm, as when the spring 
The new-created world began, 
And birds on boughs did softly sing 
Their peaceful homage paid to man ; 
While Eurus did his blasts forbear, 
In favour of the tender year. 

Dry/den. 

This effect was novel and surprising to Mr. Cur- 
wen, — but is familiar, by frequent recurrence, to 
those who protract their stay amongst these en- 
chanting scenes. 



O'SULLIVAN'S CASCADE. 

This cascade is an object of curiosity with all 
strangers, and is classed by the boatmen among 
the most striking and decided beauties about Kil- 
larney. We land at a convenient spot, and pro- 
ceed over a rocky space, under a close canopy 
of old trees. The astoundiug noise of the falls 
soon fills the ear, and the eye is immediately gra 
tified with glimpses of the water. Arrived at a 
place which use has rendered commodious, we 
perceive the restless element, — glancing from rock 
to rock, and dashing with impetuosity down the 
steeps. Several rills flow from the heights of 
Tomies, and, collecting together in an extensive 
hollow break, descend thence into a rocky glen. 
These are concealed by close masses of environ- 
ing foliage. The first fall is seen gushing from 
the intricacies of the wood, and pouring down a 
perpendicular rock into a hidden basin, from 
which it quickly escapes into a second— and then 
bursts down the greatest fall in a thundering roar. 
n2 



136 Lower Part of the Lower Lake. 

that encreases or diminishes with the variations 
of the breeze. Bold eminences, crowned with 
ancient wood, and interlaced with roots and bri- 
ars, — time-stained rocks, half concealed by the 
mouldering surface of the ground, — and dark 
ledges contrasting with the silver whiteness of the 
water — successively rivet the wandering eye. If 
the day should chance to be sultry when this 
scene is visited, the cool refreshing shade will 
be found very delightful : but a quite different 
sensation will be experienced in cold and raw 
weather. 

Having rested sufficiently at the waterfalls, we 
row round the 

LOWER PART OF THE LOWER LAKE. 
We should not expect as much gratification from 
this quarter as we have enjoyed from the scenes 
we have been just exploring. The contrast how- 
ever between them is sometimes highly pleasing. 
We pass the head of the river Laun, and come 
in view of some richly wooded parks, and of the 



Innisf alien. J 37 

country anciently inhabited by the great McCarthy. 
Returning between Mahony's Point and Brown 
Island, we have the glorious Innisfallen fully be- 
fore us. The small wooded point on our left, 
and the shrubby foliage of the islet on our right, 
help to set of the already aspiring and noble 
woods of 

INNISFALLEN. 
The rocks of the shore are very steep, but their 
shapes and positions are all along objects of the 
highest interest. Rowing round, we come to a 
small structure at the eastern end. of the island, 
and a commodious sheltered spot beyond it where 
we land. The calm and solemn grandeur of the 
deep grove of noble trees, which presents itself 
before us, forcibly strikes the mind, and establishes 
at once the superiority of this island over every 
other on the lakes. Every feature of the scenery 
around us is far removed from mediocrity, and 
must be acknowledged as eminently beautiful. 
The small structure we have just passed was an- 
ciently a chapel, attached to the abbey, whose 
n3 



138 Abbey of Innisf alien. 

ruins are scarcely distinguishable. It is now- 
used for the accommodation of the numerous par- 
ties that flock hither, as well natives as strangers ; 
but the manner in which it has been fitted up for 
this purpose is a source of general disapproba- 
tion and offence. We often witness the intermix- 
ture of Gothic and Saxon architecture, without 
any feeling of disgust ; — but to see an interesting 
ruin, over-hung with ivy and reverend from age, 
smoothly plaistered within, and perforated with 
projecting windows in the modern style — rouses 
the indignation and excites the contempt even of 
the least fastidious observer. 

ABBEY OF INNISFALLEN. 

„ The walls of the abbey are desolate indeed, 
and bear unequivocal marks of high antiquity. 
Nettles, briars, and noxious weeds grow abun- 
dantly amid the fallen rubbish, that fills up the 
space which was once occupied by the church 
and the area of the cloister. The scattered foun- 



Abbey of Innisf alien. 139 

dations of the other parts of the building cannot 
be easily traced, as they are entirely choked up 
with ruinous fragments.- It is said to have been 
founded in the sixth century by the son of a 
king of Munster,* and that it afterwards devolv- 

* " St. Finian Lobhar, or the Leper, son of Alild, 
King of Munster, and disciple of St. Brendan, found- 
ed an abbey here towards the close of the sixth cen- 
tury." " The remains of this abbey are very extensive, 
andits situation is extremely picturesque. x\ small chapel 
standing at some distance from the abbey, and which 
had originally belonged to it, is now converted by the 
noble proprietor into a banqueting house for the recep- 
tion of visitors to the romantic scenes of Killarney." 
" 1180. This abbey, says our annalist, being ever 
esteemed a paradise, and a secure sanctuary, the trea- 
sure and most valuable effects of the whole country 
were deposited in the hands of its clergy; notwith- 
standing which, we find the abbey was plundered in 
this year by Maolduin, son of Daniel O'Donaghoe, 
many of the clergy were slain, and even in their cemi- 
tery, by the M'Carthy's; but God soon punished this 
act of impiety and sacrilege, by bringing many of its 
authors to an untimely end." — ArchdalVs Monastico?K 
" The island of Innisf alien, is next to Ross in quan- 
tity of land ; in it, are the ruins of a very antient reli- 
gious house, founded by St. Finian simamed the le- 



140 Abbey of Innis fallen. 

ed on a conventicle of regular canons of the order 
of St. Augustine : but this cannot be meant of 
the original abbey, as the Irish had no building 
of lime and stone previously to the ninth century. 

Further on we pass two buildmgs, oversha- 
dowed with trees, that have a very venerable and 



per, who flourished towards the middle of the fixth 
century. He is the patron saint of these parts, and 
to him the cathedral of Aghadoe is also dedicated. 
" There was formerly a chronicle kept in this abbey, 
which is frequently cited by Sir J. Ware, and other 
antiquaries, under the title of the annals of Innis- 
fallen. These annals contain a sketch of universal 
history, from the creation of the world to the year 
430, or thereabouts ; but from thence the annalist 
hath amply enough prosecuted the affairs of Ireland, 
down to his own times ; he lived to the year 1215. 
Sir J. Ware had a copy of them, whereof, there is an 
imperfect transcript among the MSS. of the library 
of trinity coll. Dublin. They were continued by ano- 
ther hand to the year 1320. Bp. Nicholson in his 
Irish historical library, informs us, that the D. 
Chandos had a compleat copy of them, down to 1320, 
in his possession." — Smith's Kerry. 



Abbey of Innisf alien. 141 

secluded air. Adjoining these is an ancient gar- 
den of very limited dimensions, but containing 
fruit trees, which are evidently of very great age. 
Subsequently we meet a third antique pile, in suf- 
ficient repair to afford lodging to the ranger of 
the island and his family, who form, as it were, a 
constituent feature of the scenery —from their be- 
nign deportment, and reverend aspect. A con- 
venient walk conducts round the island, and dis- 
plays its principal attractions : and perhaps these 
cannot be better enumerated for the purpose of 
the tourist, than in the words of Mr. Young : — 

" The general feature is that of wood ; the sur- 
face undulates into swelling hills, and sinks into 
little vales ; the slopes are in every direction, the 
declivities die gently away, forming those slight 
inequalities which are the greatest beauty of 
dressed grounds. The little vallies let in views of 
the surrounding lake between the hills, while the 
swells break the regular outline of the water, and 
give to the whole an agreeable confusion. The 



142 Alley of Innisf alien. 

wood has all the variety into which nature has 
thrown the surface ; in some parts it is so thick 
as to appear impenetrable, and secludes all far- 
ther view ; in others, it breaks into tufts of tall 
timber, under which cattle feed. Here they 
open, as if to offer to the spectator the view of 
the naked lawn ; in others close, as if purposely 
to forbid a more prying examination. Trees of 
large size, and commanding figure, form in some 
places, natural arches; the ivy mixing with the 
branches, and hanging across in festoons of foli- 
age, while on one side the lake glitters among 
the trees, and on the other a thick gloom dwells 
in the recesses of the wood. The figure of the 
island renders one part a beautiful object to ano- 
ther ; for the coast being broken and indented, 
forms bays surrounded either by rock or wood : 
slight promontories shoot into the lake, whose 
rocky edges are crowned with wood. These are 
the great features of Innisfallen ; the slighter 
touches are full of beauties easily imagined by 
the reader. Every circumstance of the wood, 



Bed of Honour. 143 

the water, the rocks, and lawn are characteristic, 
and have a beauty in the assemblage from mere 
disposition." 

Whate'er the hand of Art has planned 
Of bold or awful, wild or grand, 
Here was not ; but a softer scene, 
Now bright, now solemn, now serene, — 
Beautiful, and for ever green ; 
As though to earth the sweets of heaven 
Maternal Nature's hand had given, 
And blended all her stores, to show 
How much of Eden rests below ! 

WlFFEN. 

That beautiful recess, which is pointed out as the 
BED OF HONOUR, 
is always a matter of momentous concern with 
the guides. It derived its name from an occur- 
rence too recent to allow of the names of the 
parties being mentioned, as some of them are 
still living, and reside in the county of Limerick. 
A young lady, heiress to £5000 a year, was by 
her father destined in marriage to a baronet, who 
was her equal in age and fortune. The lady, 
however, had already set her affections upon 



144 Bed of Honour. 

another gentleman, of an unobjectionable family, 
but of little fortune. According to the gallantry of 
the times (which is still upheld by those in hum- 
ble stations,) it was resolved between the lovers 
that— as the father of the lady was determined to 
reject every suitor but the baronet — they should 
elope together, in the hope of effecting a reconci- 
liation w T hen no other alternative should be left. 
In pursuance of this design they took the road 
to Killarney, where they halted : but, finding 
that their night had been traced, they escaped by 
a bye- way to the nearest shore of the lake. Here 
they procured a boat, rowed to the farther side 
of the island of Innisfallen, and spent the night 
(or rather twilight, as it was in the midst of sum- 
mer,) within a sequestered grotto. To elude pur- 
suit, and prevent a discovery, the boatmen was 
detained, who rowed them ashore in the morning. 
The young gentleman boldly leading forward his 
fair partner, approached her father, and intended 
husband, saying — that he came to resign her, if, 
after what had happened, he whom her parent 



Bed of Honour. 145 

preferred, were willing to accept of her. Upon 
this the young baronet declared — that, from his 
thorough conviction of the gentleman's honour, 
he would not hesitate a moment in espousing the 
lady, — and he was accordingly married to her a 
few days after. The disappointed lover consoled 
himself with the conviction of having preserved 
his honour, although he had forfeited a wife, and 
the grotto has hence obtained the name of the 
" bed of honour." 

STATION 23. 
Re-embarking at the spot where we landed, 
we leave Mouse Island on the right, and take in 
a noble expanse of water, in the direction of 
Tomies Mountain — bounded by the island we 
have just left, and a rocky point of Ross which 
we now approach. Here we observe an almost 
perpendicular rock, situated nearer the main shore, 
which is called 



146 O Donoghues Prison. 

O'DONOGHUE'S PRISON,* 

and said to have been used by that ancient 
chieftain as a place of punishment for refractory 



* "Several small islands appear at the mouth of 

Ross-bay, the most remarkable of which is a large 

rock of limestone, about twenty feet in height ; on 

one side nearly perpendicular, and not unlike a wall. 

It is called O'Donaghoe's prison ; and, according to 

the legendary tales of the country, was employed by 

the good old prince of that name, in former times, as 

a place of confinement for his disobedient son and 

rebellious associates : — 

i' 
There during life the factious were immur'd, 

And peace and order without blood secur'd. 

In what age the great O'Donaghoe nourished, 
the tradition of whose virtues is fondly transmitted 
from generation to generation, is not easily determin- 
able; but that a distinguished prince of that name 
did once actually reign over this favoured region, is a 
point so established by the testimony of concurrent 
tradition, as scarcely to require confirmation from the 
page of history." — Weld's Killarney. 

One day, in the midst of a general feast, after this 
illustrious toparck had prophesied in mystic rhymes 
the future destinies of his country, he rose from his 



ODonoghnes Prison. 147 

vassals. As our progress has at length conducted 
us to that region of the lakes, with which the 
name of O'Donoghue is more particularly- 
associated, it would be unpardonable to neglect 
the opportunity of introducing the following 
beautiful song, — written by one of the brightest 



seat and vanished like a spirit into the bosom of the 
lake. His submersion however was only temporary : 
for after a few years he re-appeared on the anniversary 
of his death (a season of solemn mourning to his 
faithful subjects, on which they used to implore his 
return with tears and lamentations), and still continues 
to emerge at intervals. " The appearance of 
O'Donaghoe is considered a most propitious omen to 
the person who is fortunate enough to behold him ; 
and the eye of the wandering peasant eagerly searches 
for him along the windings of the lake. The prince 
is always described as being mounted on a milk white 
steed. May it not then be supposed that the white 
foam of a distant wave, suddenly curled up by a gust 
of wind from the mountains, has often been converted 
by the enthusiastic imagination of the simple and 
superstitious native into the semblance of a horse and 
his rider, whose preternatural appearance his interest 
and credulity are alike perpetually anticipating." — 
Weld's Killarney. 

o 2 



148 O' Donoghues Prison. 

poetical ornaments of our island, and founded 

upon a pleasing legend. It is intituled — 

" O'Donohue's Mistress:—" 

Of all the fair months, that round the sun 
In light-link'd dance their circles run, 

Sweet May, sweet May, shine thou for me 
For still, when thy earliest beams arise, 
That youth, who beneath the blue lake lies, 

Sweet May, sweet May, returns to me. 

Of all the smooth lakes, where day-light leaves 
His lingering smile on golden eves, 

Fair Lake, fair Lake, thou'rt dear to me ; 
For when the last April sun grows dim, 
Thy Naiads prepare his steed for him 

Who dwells, who dwells, bright Lake, in thee.. 

Of all the proud steeds, that ever bore 
Young plumed Chiefs on sea or shore, 

White Steed, white Steed, most joy to thee, 
Who still with the first young glance of spring 
From under that glorious lake dost bring, 

Proud Steed, proud Steed, my love to me. 

White, white as the sail some bark unfurls, 
When newly launch' d, thy long mane curls, 

Fair Steed, fair Steed, as white and free ; 
And spirits, from all the lake's deep bowers, 
Glide o'er the blue wave scattering flowers. 

Fair Steed, around my love and thee. 



Keen Point. 149 

Of all the sweet deaths that maidens die, 
Whose lovers beneath the cold wave lie, 

Most sweet, most sweet, that death will be, 
Which under the next May evening's light, 
When thou and thy steed are lost to sight, 

Dear love, dear love, I'll die for thee. 

Thomas Moore. 

This rock consists entirely of limestone, and 
forms a striking feature in most of the views taken 
from its vicinity, and especially from the shores 
about 

REEN POINT, 
whither it is advisable now to steer. A cat 
recently made across thrs point has completely 
insulated it. The new island is stocked with 
game, which a gentleman who lives in the 
adjoining cottage has determined to encourage on 
it. The circumstances of his settlement here are 
romantic. Having left the navy at the peace, 
and entered into the bands of matrimony, he 
brought his bride from England on a tour to the 
lakes, — with the charms of which he was so 
captivated that he determined upon taking Reen 



150 Reen Point. 

Cottage, and has since made it his constant 
residence. This amiable pair enjoy whatever 
good society Killarney affords, and employ 
themselves in acts of general beneficence. " A 
brother of the earth" never " petitions" them 
"in vain to give him leave to toil," and the 
supplicating hand of poverty they never send 
" empty away." It is easy to conceive what an 
impression such characters must have made on 
the needy and neglected, but generous and grateful 

Irish, that surround them. Captain S has 

devised employment for the poor, in constructing 
a large basin with an islet in its centre on the 
margin of the lake ; and these he has stocked 
with a great variety of fish and water-fowl. He 
has also laid out gardens, and formed a shrubbery 
round his lawn, wherein he rears a number of 
eagles. 

While viewing this artificial island surrounded by 
its little lake, let not the fastidious votary of taste 
brim its size and situation to the ordeal of 



Re en Point. 151 

criticism ; but, reflecting how many benefited by 
its formation, who else had wandered from their 
families and homes in quest of a subsistence — let 
him acknowledge that the example of the 
generous proprietor is worthy of the imitation of 
all, who are possessed of the enviable ability of 
making their pleasures subservient to the cause of 
humanity. 

Station 24. 
From Reen Point we obtain fine prospects of 
the mountains, and indeed of all the surrounding 
scenery. The picture of animated life on the one 
shore contrasts finely with the calm serene 
appearance of the lake on the other, — studded 
with rocks and islands, and bounded by sublime 
mountains, extending their continuous robe of 
leafy forests for miles along the edge of the 
water. 

Rowing hence we pass Cherry Island, a 
narrow reef of rocks commanding Ross Bay, and 



152 Ross Bay. 

partially crowned with trees and shrubs. It 
forms an imposing feature in views directed 
towards Mangerton across the castle, as it then 
rises near the fore-ground, and varies the 
monotonous appearance of the water, a great 
extent of which is not requisite in such situations. 
We now proceed through 

ROSS BAY. 
If the evening hour be approaching we have a 
chance of witnessing an effect which it would 
require the magical aid of poetry to describe, 
and which affords a realization of the following 
lines : 

As if by lost pre-eminence abased, 

Hill behind hill erected locks of gray, 
And every misty morion was upraised, 

To speak their farewell to the God of Day ; 

When tempests rave along their polar way, 
Not closer rear the billows of the deep', 

Shining with silver foam, and maned with spray, 
As up the mid-way heaven they war and sweep, 
Then, foil'd and chafed to rage, roll down the 
broken steep. 

Hogg. 



Ross Castle (revisited). 153 

STATION 25. 
The left base of Glena is then in deep negativ e 
shade, while from behind it a strong light breaks 
in upon a series of projecting masses, and then 
gradually fades away as it approaches Turk, 
which is also seen in shade. When the castle in 
a half light is viewed against this back-ground, 
the scene is grand and impressive. Nature then 
presents us with a view which invites the utmost 
emulation of art. No apprehension need be here 
entertained of copying with servility, or of 
finishing too highly • for here, as elsewhere, 
nature is highly finished. After enjoying the 
luxury of such a prospect, we approach Ross 
Castle, where we land. 

ROSS CASTLE (revisited). 
Has such a tame, dull, chalky mass, ever been 
the favourite of the artist? Benedict XIV. 
whitened the dome of the Pantheon at Rome, 
perhaps to display to the civilized world, a bea- 



154 Ross Castle (revisited). 

con against false taste. A valiant commander 
has-perhaps, in emulation of the Pontiff— caused 
these formal barracks to be whitewashed, the 
erection of which, had already destroyed the pic- 
turesque effect of the old town. The castle itself 
would look sufficiently grey, if that preponde- 
rating mass of white were not so near. At 
present its grey hue appears merely as the demi- 
tint of the contiguous barracks, and conse- 
quently suggests the idea of its local colour- 
ing being white : thus false glare often disguises 
the truth. 

Station 26. 
In order to demonstrate the important of chus- 
ing a judicious point of view,— let the boat be row- 
ed out until the buildings be brought opposite the 
opening between Turk and Mangerton. The 
lower part of the objectionable edifice is now 
nearly concealed by its more picturesque 
appendages, while its upper part is seen against 
the vivid light that gleams through the ravine. 



Ross Castle (revisited). 155 

The white is thus neutralized into a finely- 
subdued tone, and the grey tower is contrasted 
against the rich ethereal purple of the mountain, 
and the warmer tints of the nearer grounds. A 
perfect harmony subsists among all the sur- 
rounding objects. The general tint of the sky 
is a softened blue, beautifully overspread with a 
light parting drapery of white clouds, floating 
with a graceful motion which is scarcely per- 
ceptible. The calm surface of the lake reflects 
and softens all the details we have just enume- 
rated. When the light parts of objects are 
diminished in lustre by being reflected in the 
water, and the shadows also thus rendered less 
deep, every thing becomes more concentrated to 
its middle tint, and harmony and softness are 
the result. 

We now return by Ross Road to the town of 
Killarney, having made the circuit of the Middle 
and Lower Lakes since we embarked at the 
castle. Besides the immediate attractions of the 



156 Ross Castle (revisited). 

water, we have witnessed a succession of scenes 
on land, not less remarkable for variety than 
beauty : — 

Here waving groves a chequer' d scene display. 
And part admit, and part exclude the day ; 
As some coy nymph her lover's warm address, 
Nor quite indulges, nor can quite repress. 
There interspers'd in lawns and op'ning glades, 
Thin trees arise that shun each other's shades. 
Here in full light the russet plains extend : 
There wrapt in clouds, the bluish hills ascend. 
E'en the wild heath displays her purple dyes, 
And midst the desert fruitful fields arise. 

Pope 



ROUTE TO UPPER LAKE. 

The Upper Lake is the principal region that 
now remains to be visited : however, the Gap 
of Dunlow should never be left out by the curious 
and scientific tourist. As the ascent to the 
Upper Lake through the defile river is always 
attended with difficulty and inconvenience at 
Old Weir Bridge, the route by Aghadoe is 
preferable, which conducts over Loun Bridge 
through the gap, and allows of our returning on 
the lake in boats previously ordered. Horses 
may be hired by those unequal to the walk, — but, 
when the day is dedicated to this ramble, it is 
far better to take a boat at the mouth of the river 
Denagh, and row down the Lower Lake. As 
this excursion is generally undertaken in the 
morning, we are often treated with fine views of 
the opposite mountains, and of the sharp peaks 
which bear the name of Macgillicuddy's Reeks, 



158 Macgillicuddys Reeks. — Greenagh. 

so called from their resemblance to stacks of 
com or hay-cocks. The highest point of 

MACGILLICUDDY'S REEKS 

is accounted the most elevated ground in Ireland, 
and is called in Irish Carrountoohil. Mr. Weld 
estimates its height at three thousand feet, and 
Mr. Curwen at three, thousand six hundred 
and ninety-five : but, from an accurate measure- 
ment by Richard Griffith, Esquire, M. R. I. A. 
Mining Engineer to the Royal Dublin Society, 
taken on the 26th August 1820, it was found to 
be three thousand four hundred and ten feet above 
the level of the sea, which may now be set down 
as its real elevation. 

GREENAGH. 

Enter the Loun, and — sending the boats with 
provision to rendezvous at the Upper Lake—land 
on the demesne of Greenagh, which is beautiful 
in itself, and commands views quite different 
from any we have had hitherto. 



Greenagh. 159 

STATION 27. 
The hills on the right rise from a cultivated 
base, and their elevation varies inversely as the 
decreasing perspective, which produces far less 
pleasing lines than those formed by views from 
the opposite direction. However, the wide 
expanse of the lake almost compensates for the 
deficiency. It is finely terminated by the ridgy 
point of Glena on the right, and by the rising 
grounds about Killarney on the left, — between 
which a richly variegated cluster of islands 
extend along the further shore, and mingle their 
grey and green tints in an infinite variety of 
shades, until the scene is shut in by the high 
grounds and hills that rise beyond the woods of 
Mucruss. 

When parties who visit Killarney are whirled 
through its scenery, regardless of every feeling 
but that of momentary gratification, they gene- 
rally submit to be directed by the guides, or 



160 Dun low Castle. 

hurried along by the boatmen, through tracts to 
which ease, advantage, or custom, has given 
the palm of superiority. But a moment's reflec- 
tion will be sufficient to expose this imposition. 
The views from the rising lawn of Greenagh, 
compared with the reverse positions, powerfully 
evince what an amazing diversity of character 
the scenery assumes, according as the spectator 
changes his place. Yet numbers are rowed 
under these shores without landing, and finally 
leave the lakes without the least impression of 
contrasts even far less powerful than these. This 
arises for want of their making sufficient enquiries 
about the routes, and using their own judg- 
ment, to a reasonable degree, in planning ex- 
cursions. 

We proceed on to the bridge over the Loun, 
where we cross — and then return to view 
DUNLOW CASTLE. 

There is little of this old fabric now remaining; 
but it has been judiciously repaired by Major 



Dun low Castle. 161 

M ahony, and is at once a romantic and a com- 
fortable residence. From the erection of the 
baronial castles in the twelfth century, when the 
first English invasion took place, through all the 
eventful period which followed, up to the arrival 
of the parliamentary forces which spread such 
wide desolation in Ireland, this edifice in common 
with most others, was the scene of great vicissi- 
tudes. Its commanding situation gave security 
to its inmates, and the turbulent disposition of 
the Kerry chieftains kept them ever on the alert. 
In the wild-spirited day of the Earl of Desmond 
many parts of it were demolished. It was after- 
wards repaired,— but again sustained considerable 
damage during the interregnum, when it was 
bombarded.* 

* " Dunloh-castle seems to have been erected for 
the double purpose of guarding the river and a defile 
in the great chain of mountains. It stands on the 
summit of a small conical hill, whose apex has been 
cut down to afford a more convenient space for the 
building ; and from ite position it must, before the use 
©f artillery, have been a place of great strength. In 



162 D unlaw Castle. 

Round the base, the ground is well wooded 
with forest trees, which adorn the sides of the 
mount in lofty and compact groups, the ancient 
walls of the tower appearing over their tops. 
From the embattled parapet of the roof an 
extensive prospect of the hills and lake opens to 
the eastward, which is seen to great advantage 
in the morning or forenoon : and below, along 
the course of the river which flows by the castle 
on the north, the view includes a great diversity 
)f objects verging towards the ocean. 

From hence to the gap, the character of the 
ground is neither in harmony with that of the 
rugged defile to which it leads, nor sufficiently 
contrasted with it. 

the wars of the Earl of Desmond, during the reigns of 
Henry the Eighth and Queen Elizabeth, it suffered 
considerably ; but it was rebuilt about the period of 
Sir George Carew's administration in Munster. In 
after times, when the parliamentary forces came into 
this country, it was again attacked, and a great part 
of it demolished by a bombardment." — Welds 
Ki Harney. 



Gap of Dunlow. 163 



GAP OF DUNLOW. 

This wonderful scene appears a frightful chasm, 
when seen from the Tralee road at the distance of 
ten miles ; but it must be closely examined by 
those who desire to be acquainted with its stu- 
pendous details. Immense blocks of rock rent 
from the overhanging masses of the precipice, and 
precipitated down its ruined sides, lie scattered 
about, so as completely to choke up the defile. 
The entire is the mighty work of unassisted 
nature. Impending fragments seem starting from 
their shattered beds, and ready to add to the 
chaos below. A stream, totally inadequate to 
the magnificence of the scene, is still a pleasing 
accompaniment. The tortuous course of its 
channel, and the direction of the road cut 
through the pass, produce many picturesque 
combinations. Sometimes deep cuts have been 
made in the rocks to render the road accessible, 
and the difficulty has at other times been evaded 



J64 Gap of Dunlow. 

by letting it wind between pillars of solid stone. 
Bridges are built across the rivulet to afford 
communication between its banks, according as 
it has been found convenient to direct the line 
of road along the one or the other. The 
successive appearance of their arches sometimes 
offends, but oftener gratifies the eye. The 
situation of one of them is rendered exceedingly 
striking and picturesque by an abrupt fall of the 
stream immediately beneath it, — the water of 
which, always clear in passing over its stony bed, 
foams, sparkles, and gushes along. 

Having scrambled for nearly three miles 
through the romantic scenery of this truly Alpine 
pass, we climb a steer> on the left, and behold 
the Upper Lake exhibiting an infinitely more 
sublime prospect than any we have yet beheld : — 

But O what bard could sing the onward sight ! 

The piles that frown'd, the gulfs that yawn'd beneath! 
Downward a thousand fathoms from the height, 

Grim as the caverns in the land of death ! 



Gap of Buntow. 165 

Like mountains shatter'd in th' Eternal's wrath, 
When fiends their banners 'gainst his reign unfurl' d — 

A grisly wilderness ! a land of scathe ! 
Rocks upon rocks in dire confusion hurl'd ! 
A rent and formless mass, the rubbish of a world. 

Hogg. 



STATION 28. 
Purple Mountain towers on our left in majestic 
grandeur, and mingles its interrupted outlines 
with the long range which fades away from view 
beyond it. A craggy and dizzy steep on the 
right is separated from us by a precipitate moun- 
tain torrent. The middle distance is occupied 
by vales, forests, knolls, and headlands which 
indent the lake, that lies outstretched beneath us. 
It is variegated with islands, and bounded at the 
remote extremity by Cromagloun, which over- 
hangs its shores, backed by numerous hills whose 
summits die away in the distance. 

From the steep promontory gazed 
The stranger, raptured and amazed. 



166 Gap of Dun low. 

And, " What a scene were here/' he cried, 

" For princely pomp or churchman's pride ! 

On this bold brow, a lordly tower ; 

In that soft vale, a lady's bower ; 

On yonder meadow, far away, 

The turrets of a cloister grey ; 

How blithely might the bugle horn 

Chide, on the lake, the lingering morn ! 

How sweet, at eve, the lover's lute 

Chime, when the groves were still and mute ! 

And, when the midnight moon did lave 

Her forehead in the silver wave, 

How solemn on the ear would come 

The holy mattin's distant hum, 

While the deep peal's commanding tone 

Should wake, in yonder islet lone, 

A sainted hermit from his cell, 

To drop a bead with every knell — 

And bugle, lute, and bell and all, 

Should each bewildered stranger call 

To friendly feast, and lighted hall. 

Walter Scott, 



, 



UPPER LAKE. 

By the time we reach the borders of the lake ? 
the boats — if they have not already arrived at the 
appointed rendezvous — appear before us gliding 
along its surface. When the eye is almost over- 
powered by contemplating the tremendous moun- 
tains upraised in awful and sovereign repose, 
it is attracted and relieved by a cluster of small 
islands. The largest aud most striking among 
these bears the name of an English gentleman 
who fixed his romantic abode in a cottage which 
he built here. 

RONAYNE'S ISLAND. 

The sides of this island consist of a series of 
precipices interrupted only at the ,spot, where 
the rocks shelve down to the water's edge, over- 
spread with a smooth green-sward so as to af- 
ford a convenient place for landing. 



168 Ronaynes Island. 

STATION 29. 
" The way which leads to the top of the rock 
is by a path cut through the wood, which ex- 
cludes every prospect until the summit is 
gained. 

" Highly as were our expectations raised. 
the reality mocked all the creative power which 
fancy could supply. At once the whole sub- 
limity of the scene was disclosed to our won- 
dering imagination ! In silent astonishment I 
gazed for a length of time. — The magnificent 
grandeur of the whole was too imposing to be 
comprehensible — it was overpowering ! Figure, 
to yourself the towering mass rising almost per- 
pendicularly from its base to an elevation of 
three thousand six hundred and ninety-five feet, 
overshadowing the translucent waters of the lake. 
Such is the height of M'Gilly Cuddy's Reeks, 
one of the most elevated mountains in Ireland, 
whose line of summit is so indented, as to render 



Ronaynes Island. 169 

it difficult on which point to fix as that most 
entitled to pre-eminence. This mountain is 
accompanied by many others, little inferior in 
loftiness, and magnitude. One vast uninterrupted 
expanse of purple heath overspreads the upper 
regions, while the base is luxuriantly fringed with 
the evergreen arbutus, and other trees. 

" The sun, which shone resplendently on our 
arrival at Ronnayson's* Island, was but little 
above the horizon of the mountain : his decline 
irradiated the whole expanse of heath as with a 
sheet of burnished gold ; whilst a superadded 
brightness illuminated all its prominent parts* 
Profusely grand was this luxurious moment — the 
next, the refulgent orb sank behind the elevated 

* The enlightened traveller, from whose work this 
extract is quoted, rivals even the French in the 
remarkable facility he has displayed of spelling proper 
names improperly. Few of the places about Killarney 
have escaped the ordeal of his pen, and " Ronnayson's" 
for Ronayne's may be esteemed one of the most venial 
of his orthographical aberrations. 
Q 



170 Ronaynes Island. 

mass. This was not foreseen, and produced a 
greater effect than if it had been anticipated — for 
t seemed the operation of enchantment 

" Dark, deep, and broadly-expanded shades, 
assuming the sable guise of night, now chilled 
that surface which instantly before had blazed 
with golden streams of warmth. The dazzled 
eye, contracted by the luminous effect of the sun, 
was, on its disappearance, though dilated, 
dimmed — the darkened tints which were thrown 
upon the lake operated an instantaneous transition 
of feeling — the sublimity of the scene had reached 
an acme of gratification, in which we could no 
longer indulge — the excess of delight became a 
source of melancholy — and while a tributary tear 
involuntarily moistened the eye, as a grateful 
acknowledgment for the feast in which it had 
luxuriated, the relief of intellectual obligations 
could only be expressed by an effusion of deep- 
drawn sighs ; and memory will cease to exercise 
ner functions, ere the impression is forgotten or 



Ronaynes Island. 17 1 

recalled, without a repetition of the even painful 
exuberance of pleasure that vision had oc- 
casioned." 

Such is the splendid picture drawn by J. C. 
Curwen, Esq. M. P., whose observations on the 
state of Ireland, written in 1813, operated to 
dissipate whatever of prejudice remained in the 
minds of the better informed, and to correct 
numerous errors that had prevailed respecting this 
interesting country. 

The Upper Lake far exceeds the others in 
sublimity. All its appurtenances are on a grand 
and imposing scale. Wherever we take our station, 
— whithersoever we turn our eyes, — the reign 
of primeval simplicity is accompanied by the 
most powerful expression of its influence. This 
sublimity affects the mind, and detaches it from 
every sublunary care ; and perhaps it is from the 
peculiar operation of the powerful ascendancy of 
this feeling — that the author of this work has often 
preferred visiting the Upper Lake alone. 



172 Shores — Berricanihy Glen. 



SHORES. 

The details exhibited along the borders of this 
lake are as various and interesting as those we 
have already described : but general impressions 
coincide best with its character — and we therefore 
omit a minute examination of particulars — leaving 
to their own discretion those of our readers who 
may wish to explore the numerous coves, copse- 
crowned banks, rocks, glens, and cascades, 
with which its margins are diversified. 

DERRICANIHY GLEN. 

Having coasted close to the southern shore, we 
enter a creek between the main land and a far- 
projecting point, pass a rocky island, and pro- 
ceed up a stream — which, issuing from a deep 
romantic glen that lies between Cromagloun and 
Derricanihy mountains, discharges itself into the 
lake. This has been ever considered by the eye 
of taste as super-eminent among all the widely- 





Derricanihy Glen. 




173 


extended attraction 


s of Killarney. 


Nothing 


so 


completely 


effaces 


the recollection 


of all o 


ther 


scenes, or 


floats in 


such vivid colouring on 


the 



mind when their beauties are merely remembered. 

Having followed the course of the rivulet 
(which is full and clear, and has its banks adorned 
with evergreens, shrubs, and aquatic plants,) we 
reach a deep, smooth expanse of the river, met 
at its upper end by a brawling current that 
rushes into it from among some rocks. Ad- 
vancing a few paces we listen to the stunning 
sound, which proceeds from a sheet of water 
falling over a ledge of rock that traverses its 
course. Below it, a rustic bridge, of the rudest 
materials, is connected with a walk that winds 
away into a thicket of holly. The exploring eye 
of expectation is actively employed in looking for 
some humble residence, where contented poverty 
may be loitering away its lonely existence, 
until — on our landing at an opening in the 
path, and pursuing the way for a few steps — the 



174 Hyde's Cottage. 

unexpected prospect of a highly finished thatched 
dwelling suddenly bursts on the sight. 

HYDE'S COTTAGE. 

This retreat was chosen, and the building 
planned, by the Rev. Arthur Hyde, Rector of 
Killarney, &c. It stands a living proof of the 
fine taste and feeling that superintended its 
erection. The cottage consists of a ground floor, 
and an attic story appropriated to bed-chambers 
and lighted through the thatch. It is surrounded 
by rustic columns, richly entwined with creeping 
plants which festoon the edges of the projecting 
roof. It is seated on an undulating lawn of 
green-sward, the soil of which is so thin that the 
grey rocks frequently appear through it. This 
sequestered abode is decorated with a profusion 
of flowers, highly cultivated, but so judiciously 
disposed that they seem the boon of nature ; and 
the entire is calculated to recall the following 
pleasing lines, descriptive of a somewhat similar 
scene : — 



Derricanihy Cascade, 1 75 

Still seem I to behold what then I saw, 
The white walls of a cottage in the sunlight, 
And o'er the roof, with green leaves tluttering, 
A broad elm spread its boughs, and small birds there 
Were singing pleasantly — up the white walls 
The jasmine climbed, and o'er the doorway's arch 
Hung like a garland — 

Anster. 



STATION SO. 
From hence a wood is descried, where the trees 
overtop each other until they become opposed to 
the rocky chain of Derricanihy, which descends 
in ledges merging into a deep ravine. Beyond it 
a partial view is obtained of the eminences 
approaching Cromagloun, which elevates its 
noble rocks to a great height on the left. A fine 
diversity of foliage occupies the middle distance, 
and, retiring on each side, discloses the beautiful 
cascade which enlivens the whole landscape. 

DERRICANIHY CASCADE. 

The ridge of Derricanihy Mountain, which 
descends to the ravine and then rises on Croma- 



176 Derr ican ihy Cascade . 

gloun, obstructs the numerous rills which collect 
in the glen above it. These united waters pour 
over the rocky ledge, in several falls — which are 
often hid by the interwoven masses of foliage, 
and as often re-appear, spouting in some new 
direction or gushing across each other. The 
lowest fall is hid by the underwood. 

And from the loud-resounding rocks below 
Dash'd in a cloud of foam, it sends aloft 
A hoary mist, and forms a ceaseless shower. 

Thomson. 

After an interval of shrubby borders and grassy 
projections, the banks shelve into the channel 
of a stream, — which, with additional fury, boils 
and whirls round advancing rocks and wooded 
steeps, until — once more widening into a spacious 
basin — it precipitates itself over the rocks, which 
now lie on our left. We may proceed all along 
this most romantic glen, by a very commodious 
mountain path ; and few walks of similar extent 



Derricanihy Cascade. 177 

better repay the degree of exertion which they 
require. The intermixture of lines, brought into 
contact at every bend of the road, is singular in 
the extreme. The torrent which, flashing over a 
craggy barrier, sinks behind it far down out of 
sight, — drooping foliage -and impending banks, — 
weather-beaten rocks protruding their grey fronts, 
— clusters of stately trees bending under their 
thick foliage, — masses of hanging wood, — reaches 
of the stream occasionally extending along, — - 
coarse grassy pastures browsed by the red deer, — 
glimpses of the Upper Lake,— and glorious views 
of the mountains, — successively greet the eye. 
On the ascending side are beheld — steep accli- 
vities bespangled with glancing streams threading 
the dewy brushwood, — birches, shooting up 
their slender branches higher than the aspen, — ■ 
and larches with their pensile twigs sweeping the 
ground. Every thing wears the genial aspect 
of nature's wild luxuriance, 



178 Cromagloun. 

O Nature, how in every charm supreme ! 
Whose votaries feast on raptures ever new ! 
O for the voice and fire of seraphim, 
To sing thy glories with devotion due ! 

Beat-he. 

CROMAGLOUN. 

This mountain is covered with tangled roots of 
furze, heath, and coarse grass. In many places 
the surfaces of bare rocks lie exposed to a great 
extent, and chasms and precipices complete its 
character. It is consequently difficult to cross 
— but we wind over to it from the top of the 
glen, and make out our trackless way to the 
brow which commands the Upper Lake. 

STATION 31. 

An immense amphitheatre of awful mountains 
are seen to encompass the lake, which is dis- 
played in its entire extent like a mighty reservoir 
• — receiving numerous streams, that resemble 
broken lines of light, meandering down to its 



Stag- Hunt. 179 

spacious surface. Macgillicuddy's Reeks, termi- 
nated by the Sugar- Loaf on the left and Purple 
Mountain on the right, form a wedge-like assem- 
blage of conical peaks, and constitute an inex- 
pressibly fine back-ground. As we descend the 
mountain from this station, the river of the defile 
with the Eagle's Nest and Turk Mountain appears 
in view ; and, farther down, we distinguish all 
the minor features of the landscape. 

Stag-Hunt. 
On the 31st of August 1820, a hot sultry day, 
while the writer of this work was engaged in 
sketching the interesting scenery around, from a 
rock in this quarter — he was very agreeably sur- 
prised by the halloos of a stag-hunt, and the gay 
appearance of a number of boats coming quickly 
up the defile river. The chase had been planned 
in honour of T. S. Rice, Esq. M. P. who was on 
a visit with a gentleman in the neighbourhood of 
Killarney. The deer did not afford the sport 
that was expected, having kept under cover of 



180 U]iper Lake (revisited). 

the woods, and was killed by the dogs. How- 
ever, the light airy appearance of the company 
in the boats, — their passage through Coleman's 
Eye into the lake, — their circular movement back 
into the river, — their rapid disappearance down 
the stream, — the music and the echoes, — were all 
calculated to leave an impression on the mind too 
delightful to be easily effaced. 

UPPER LAKE (revisited). 
Having descended to the margin of the lake, 
we find a commodious place of embarkation 
opposite to Oak Island, and obtain from the little 
bay a perfect specimen of close scenery. 

STATION 32. 
Purple Mountain rises on the right— its base 
finely marked by Oak Island with its little 
unassuming cottage. Part of the Reeks are seen, 
broken and abrupt, in the distance ; and the 
little bay is fringed round with mossy rocks, 
tufted with arbute, holly, and other evergreens, 



Newfoundland.— Coleman 's Eye. 181 

which are sweetly reflected in the clear water 
beneath us. 

NEWFOUNDLAND. 

By rowing round a little to the right, we enter 
a large inlet of the lake at this place. Having 
surveyed this basin, and enjcyed the contrast of 
its opposite shores, we next proceed to 
COLEMAN'S EYE. 

This is a narrow strait uniting the river of the 
defile to the Upper Lake. A ridiculous story 
may be learnt from the boatmen, of a mighty 
hero having' imprinted his footmarks on a rock 
here, in springing out from the adjacent woods 
on some chivalrous exploit : but it is purely a lake 
fiction. From hence to the Middle Lake the 
distance is about three miles, and the way is 
amusing from its variety. It is, however, 
generally passed under circumstances which render 
it little attended to : on going up, tourists are all 
anxiety to see the Upper Lake ; and on going 
down they are full of breathless expectation of 
hearing the echoes at the 



182 



Eagles Nest. 




EAGLE'S NEST.— STATION 33. 

The situation of the eyry, from which this 
celebrated rock takes its name, may easily be 
discerned at a cleft near its summit, about which 
eagles are generally seen hovering in the air. 
This strange assemblage of fractured rocks forms 
the abrupt extremity of a range, which lessens 
from the river inwards, but swells here iuto a 
huge mass of stone, from which clusters of trees 
spring in such profusion as if the mineral king- 
dom were their natural habitation. Here in 
stormy weather the noble bird of Jove may 
sometimes be seen, unmoved amid the conflict of 
adverse elements ; and the following vivid des- 



Eagles Nest. 183 

eription, although not strictly applicable in all its 
parts, may be here not unappropriated cited : — 

The storm hath ceased ; but still the lava tides 
Roll down the mountain side in streams of fire ; 
Down to the lake they roll, and yet roll on, 
All burning, through the waters. Heaven above 
Glows round the burning mount, and fiery clouds 
Scour through the black and starless firmament. 
Far off, the Eagle, in his mountain nest, 
Lies watching in alarm, with steady eye, 
The midnight radiance, 

SOUTHEY. 

The astonishing echoes produced by horns or 
similar instruments, or by firing a gun or swivel 
here, constitute the leading attraction* The 
musicians remain near the base of the rock, and 
the company are landed on the opposite bank out 
of their view ; but the fire-arms are placed on a 
rocky projection opposite to the lofty cliff. Mr. 
Ockenden, who published his " Letters from 
Killarney " upwards of fifty years ago, has the 
following passage, which, at present, is equally 
applicable to the scene described as it was when 
be wrote. 



184 Eagles Nest. 

" Suddenly, to our inexpressible amazement, 
we were surprised with music sweeter than I had 
ever heard before, which seemed to rise from the 
rock at which we gazed, and, breaking upon us 
in short melodious strains, filled the very soul 
with transport. Angels from the sky, or fairies 
from the mountain, or O'Donoghue from the 
river, was what we every moment expected to 
appear before us ; but after a quarter of an hour's 
fixed attention, all our raptures were dispersed 
by a clap of thunder most astonishingly loud, 
which, bursting from the same direction whence 
the music had lately seemed to flow, rent the 
mountain with its roar, and filled us with the 
apprehension of being instantly buried in a chaos 
of wood, hill, and water. But the horror was 
as suddenly dissipated by the return of the sooth- 
ing strain which had before entranced us. 

" The second music, which immediately suc- 
ceeded the thunder, seemed more soft and lulling 
than the first ; but our elysium was very short, 



Old Weir Bridge. 185 



"6 



being soon lost in another clap, still louder than 
that which had preceded it, and which burst 
suddenly upon us, again awakening us to terror : 
when, lo ! a third return of music, superlatively- 
sweet indeed., restored our senses and reinstated 
our hearts. It lasted some time, and a most 
solemn silence ensued," 

There is no exaggeration in this glowing 
account of the surrounding echoes. It may be 
generally remarked — that they begin about the 
opening between Turk and Mangerton, and, 
reverberating from hill to hill all round to the 
south, die away towards the Gap of Dunlow. 

Pursuing our rapid way down an uninteresting 
space (the eSect of the echoes gradually fading 
from our mind,) we arrive at 

OLD WEIR BRIDGE, 
under which the boats descend with great 
rapidity, borne along by the impetuosity of the 
current. The ascent of the defile through this 



386 Dinas Island. 

place presents a considerable obstacle to visiting 
the Upper Lake, and is attended with a great 
deal of difficulty. The company have to land 
and walk round by the shore, while the men 
drag the boat through the arch. The boatmen 
are so expert — that casualties of a serious nature 
very rarely occur during the descent. Having 
surmounted this impediment, we pass on with 
great rapidity until we arrive at 

DINAS ISLAND, 
where the stream divides itself into two channels 
w^hich encircle it. That which passes off to 
the right meets the Middle Lake, while that 
on the left glides round to the bay of Glena. 
This island is a delightful woodland retreat, 
possessed of great diversity of scenery ; and few 
tourists fail to land in it, to enjoy its calm 
seclusion and partake of refreshment. 6i We 
dined here," saM a friend of the author, " and 
experienced every civility from the inmates of its 
retired cottage. On parting we pressed a small 
gratuity on them in return for their attention, but 



Dinas Island. 187 

the acceptance was not accorded until they had 
slipped a noble brace of woodcock into our 
basket:" — a delicate expression of generosity 
worthy of Dandy Dinmont himself. We now 
row through the bay of Glena, or pass under 
Brie keen Bridge s — and, crossing the Archipelago, 
land at Ross Castle, whence we proceed up the 
road to the town of Killarney. 



INTRODUCTION TO THE ROUTES. 

Although a great deal has been written on 
the Lakes of Killarney, it is generally allowed 
that nothing like an adequate guide through their 
varied scenery has yet appeared. The more inti- 
mately I became acquainted with their exhaustless 
details, the more I felt convinced how useful 
would be a work that should conduct a stranger 
to every part worthy of notice, and inform him 
how to spend his time to most advantage during 
his visit. In Weld's book, the matter necessary 
to this end is too much scattered to be really 
serviceable on the spot, and— -with one or two 
exceptions — his drawings are conceived with such a 
latitude as makes them appear mere recollections 



189 

of the scenes rather than topographical deline- 
ations. An anonymous pamphlet, published in 
1776, points out seven stations and gives a cursory 
account of the scenery, with a map drawn with- 
out rule from some elevated situation, and utterjy 
unfit for the present day. Mr. Young, who re- 
mained among the lakes for three days during his 
Irish tour, describes one or two scenes, — but the 
rest of his account consists merely of an enumera- 
tion of such objects as struck his fancy. Sir 
R. C. Hoare, Okenden, Curwen, and other 
tourists, have inserted similar notices in their 
works, each contributing a little to the mass of 
description ; but that which has dropped from 
the pen of Sir John Carr is almost too con- 
temptible to be noticed. The article relative to 
Killarney, in " The Traveller's Guide through 
Ireland," is merely a digest of Weld's work, — and 
bears every mark of having been arranged in the 
editor's study, with an accession of blemishes 
and not one improvement. The " Scientific 
Tourist " has a well written article on the lakes, 



100 

condensed into five pages, and consequently too 
confined to serve as a guide. These facts stand 
forward as an apology for attempting the present 
work, in which the main design has been to point 
out the objects which claim universal attention, 
without interlarding it with extraneous subjects. 
Parties seldom remain long on their visits, and 
their time is frequently abridged by unfavourable 
weather, — for which reasons various routes are 
marked out, to be pursued by such as can spend 
only one, two, or three days ; and these have 
been chosen so as to embrace features of 
paramount interest, such as should never be 
overlooked. The stations are all marked in the 
map which accompanies the work, and by 
turning from it to the Contents, the reader will 
readily find what he wants, as contiguous objects 
are all described in connection with each other, 



ROUTES, 



THE uncertain state of the atmosphere in moun- 
tainous regions is nowhere more frequently experienced 
and lamented than at Killarney ; and strangers have 
often quitted this wonderful district without enjoying a 
single fine day. When the weather is unsettled, 
visitors should repair — on the first appearance of a 
favourable moment — to such parts of the scenery as are 
universally admired — and be content to explore a few 
of the leading features, in preference to visiting a 
multiplicity of objects of lesser interest. If a wet or 
cjoudy day should clear up about noon (as is frequently 
the case), a very interesting part of the scenery may 
be visited by taking a boat at Ross Castle, and fol- 
lowing the first route as far as practicable ; — and a fine 
evening may be delightfully employed on the West 
Domain, at Stations 1 and 2. 



192 Routes. 

ONE DAY. 

Embark at Ross Castle. — See Account, — see also Stations 25 and 26 . 
Proceed to Innisfallen, 

O'Sullivan's Cascade, 
Station 22, 
Glen a Bay, 
Dinas Island, 
Old Weir Bridge, 

Eagle's Nest, — See Account at Station 33. 
Enter Up. Luke— Coleman's Eye — See Account of Up. Lake. 
Proceed to Ronayne's Island, — See Station 29. 

Hyde's Cottage,— See Station 30. 
Return through Defile.— Descend quickly, and choose either of the 

following : — 
Proceed up Middle Lake, Or, Proceed to Station 21. 

Turk Cottage, — See Station 14. Disembark at Brickeen Bridge, 
Return through Brickeen Bridge, Send Boat round to Castlelough 
Proceed to Station 20. Bay, 

Hen and Chicken Islands, Walk up Peninsula, 

Disembark at Ross Castle. Mucruss House, — Station 8. 

Mucruss Abbey, 
Green Hills,— Station 11. 
Re-embark at Castlelough Bay, 
Hen and Chicken Islands, 
Disembark at E.oss Castle. 

ONE DxAY.— Another Route. 

Embark at Ross Castle, 
Proceed to Innisfallen, 

O'Sullivan's Casrade, 

Greenagh — Disembark, and send boats and provisions 

round to upper shores of Upper Lake. 



Routes. 193 

Proceed to Dunlow Castle, 

Through Gap of Duulow,— See Account. 
Continue to Station 28. 

Upper Lake, — Re-emhark. 
Ronayue's Island, — See Station 29. 
Hj-de's Cottage, — Station 30. 
Return through Defile River, — Coleman's Eye, 
Proceed to Eagle's Nest,— See Station 33. 
Old Weir Bridge, 
Dinas Island, 
Enter Middle Lake.— Take either of the Routes pointed 
out on entering Turk Lake in the preceding directions. 

When parties remain for Two Days, let them take 
either of the Routes described under One Day, and 
on the following proceed to 

West Domain,— See Stations 1 and 2.* 
Aghadoe,— and home to breakfast. 



* The places which are to be visited in rotation, are 
all set down under each other according to the suc- 
cession in which it is intended they should be seen ; 
and, when the stations are noted in a like manner, 
they are understood to designate places which are not 
otherwise named. But when the stations are placed 
in the margin, it is intended to point out to the reader 
— that he will find an account of the places to which 
they are annexed under their proper heads in the 
Contents. — For instance, 



194 Routes. 

Then proceed by Flesk Bridge, — See Station 18. 

Enter Cahirnane Domain, — See Account. 
Station 7, 

Station 17, — And, if Mucruss Abbey were not visited 
the preceding day, pass on to it now, and return to 
Cloghereen. 
Proceed to Station 15, — See Account. 
Ascend Mangerton Mountain, 

Devil's Punch-Bowl, — Station 16. 
Return down the Mountain, 
to Turk Bridge, 
Turk Waterfall, 
Turk Cottage,— See Station 14. 
Station 12, 

Mucruss House, — Station 8 . 
Cloghereen, — Station 17. 
Pteturn to Killarney by Flesk Bridges. 

Mem. — Mucruss Abbey is passed on returning — but 
it should be viewed on going out if not previously- 
visited, as it is too dark and gloomy to be seen to 
advantage in the evening. 

Pass Flesk Bridge,— See Station 18. 1 Means that you are 

Enter Cahirnane,- See Description. C \ si to P ass F - brid S e - 

f then enter Cahirnane 
Station 7. ^ and g0 to station 7. 

The account of views at Flesk Bridge you find at 
Station 18. — The account of Cahirnane you find under 
its ®wn heading, and the account of the view at Station 
7, you also find under its heading, — and so on for all 
the rest. 



Routes. 195 

Such as are deterred from encountering the fatigue 
of climbing Mangerton Mountain may employ their 
second day, beginning at 

West Domain, — Stations 1 and 2. 
to Aghadoe, 

Danish Fort,— Station 3. 
Glen in Deer- Park, 
Station 4, 

Aghahunnig Bridge, 
Station 5, 
Cross Flesk River, 
Ascend Drumhooper Hill, 
Coltrnan's Castle, 
Proceed to Flesk Bridge,— Station 18. 
Cahirnane, 
Station 7, 
Castlelough Bay, 
Cloghereen, — Station 17. 
Mucruss Abbey, 
Green Hills,— Station 11. 
Stations 12 and 13, 
Turk Cottage,— Station 14. 
Turk Waterfall, 
.Station 15.— And to Killarney by Kenmare Road. 

In following these routes (intended for visitors who 
remain only one or two days,) all the leading objects 
are brought under view ; and scarcely any scene is 
beheld a second time, so that the greatest possible 
diversity is presented. But this is not a desirable 
circumstance ; for nothing excites greater surprise and 
affords more satisfaction — than witnessing the amazing 
M 2 



196 Routes. 

variety of character assumed by the same scenery, 
beheld under different effects of light and shade, and 
attended by striking changes of the atmosphere. The 
rapidity requisite for traversing such extensive scenery, 
in so short a space of time, affords the visitant little 
leisure for anything but admiration and astonishment. 
However, by turning over the accounts as he goes on, 
the most prominent objects cannot fail of fixing them- 
selves on his memory, and furnishing ample matter for 
future enjoyment. 

Parties who remain Three Days may see the 
Lakes to great advantage by observing the following 
routes. 

The first day should be dedicated to the ascent of 
Mangerfcon, as the views which it presents are all of 
the most extensive kind, and conduce to impart correct 
ideas of the topography of the lakes, which will be 
found materially to enhance the future enjoyment of 
their scenery. This journey should be undertaken 
after an early breakfast, — and, if a small supply of 
sandwiches or other refreshments be provided for the 
excursion, they will be found very grateful to the 
party, when arrived at the Devil's Punch- Bowl, 
where the keen air sharpens the appetite. Ladies, 
who may be unequal to the fatigue of climbing the 
mountain, can readily procure horses : such as are 
employed in the husbandry of the neighbourhood are 
generally sure-footed, and good hacks for this purpose. 



Routes. 197 

Pass Flesk Bridge,— See Station 18. ■ 
Enter Cahirnane,— See Description. 
Station 7, 
Regain the Road at Castlelough Bay,— See Station 7. 
Proceed to Cloghereen, 

Station 17, — See Account. 
Drumrourke Hill, 
Station 15, 
Ascend Mangerton. — When nearly halfway up, a lake is 
seen on the base of the mountain next to Glenflesk. 
This is Lough Catan. Another basin, situated in an 
immense chasm of the mountain which lies to the 
left of the line of ascent, is called (xlen-na-coppul. 
Remark Devil's Punch-Bowl, 
Proceed to Station 16, —See Account. 
Order the guide to descend on the southern side of 
the mountain, so as to bring the party on the Ken- 
mare road at Turk Bridge ; which will diversify the 
scenery and exhibit the station so highly extolled by 
Young. — Return to Killarney. 



The second day should be spent on the Lower 
Lake, and in viewing the objects of interest on its 
shores. The Middle Lake also and its accompani- 
ments should be visited. The character of these 
scenes is beauty, partially blended with a degree of 
magnificence, and is highly enjoyed after the stu- 
pendous scenery beheld the preceding day : — and the 
very circumstance of boating acquires additional zest, 
from the hardships previously undergone. 



198 Routes. 

Embark at Ross Castle,— See Description, and Station 26. 
Proceed to Station 25,— See Accounts in this work. 
Reen Point, 
Station 24, 
Q'Donoghue's Prison, 
Station 23, 

Innisfallen,— Spend as much time as possible here. 
Rabbit Island, 
O 'Sullivan's Cascade, 
Station 22, 

Station 20,— Find this station from the directions 
given in this work. 
Glen a Ray, 

Glena Cottage, — This place affords accommodation 
for partaking of such refreshments as the company 
may have brought with them. Rut perhaps it would 
he a better arrangement to sail round Innisfallen 
on coming out, without landing ; and to repair to it 
in the afternoon for dinner, and remain till sunset. 
Dinas Island, 
Enter Middle Lake, called also Turk Lake, 
Proceed to Station 21, 

Rrickeen Bridge, 
Station 9, 
Devil's Island, 
Turk Cottage, 
Station 14, 
Turk Waterfall, 
Order the boats round to a convenient place for embarking at 
CastMough Bay, and walk from Turk Cottage to 
Station 13, 

Station 12, — Hence to Mucruss House, or to 
Gxegn Hills, Station II,— See Description. 



Routes, 199 

Visit Mucruss Abbey, 
From hence go towards the lake at Castlelough Bay, where the 
boats were ordered to be in waiting, and re- embark. 
Proceed to Sugar Island, 
Ash Island, 

Horse Rock,— And, if time permit, row in a 
variety of directions among the cluster of islands 
and rocks called the Hen and Chickens ; thence to 
O'Donoghue's Table, 

Pigeon Island, — Pass the Estuary of the river Flesk 
to Ross Castle, and home to Killarney. 
Or, if Innisfallen were omitted with an intention of banquetting 
there (as it is expressed), row from the 

Hen and Chicken Islands, round by the Mines on 
Ross Island, Thence to 
Mouse Island, and land on 
Innisfallen. 

The third day should be employed in passing 
through the Gap of Dunlow, viewing the Upper Lake 
and returning by the Eagle's Nest. The scenery of 
this district is of the most sublime description, and is 
best enjoyed after the beauties of the Lower Lake. 
The merits of Mangerton consist in the elevated posi- 
tions which it affords for prospects the most extensive, 
and which impress the mind with an idea of grandeur : 
but the magnificent scenes, which the Gap and Upper 
Lake display, almost overpower the mind by their 
pre-eminent sublimity. 

Take a boat either at Ross or Reen Point ; or walk 
through the West Domain, and embark at the estuary 
of the River Denagh. 



200 Routes. 

Proceed down the lower part of the Lower Lake, 

Land at Greenagh, and send the boats and provisions round 

to the upper part of the Upper Lake to wait. 
Proceed to Station 2 7, 

Dunlow Castle, 

Gap of Dunlow.— Ladies, or those who cannot 

undergo much fatigue, may ride from Killarney 

through the Gap of Dunlow to the Upper Lake — 

whither boats and provisions should previously be 

sent, and also an attendant, to take back the 

horses or other conveyance to Killarney. — Visit 

Station 28, — and then 
Embark on Upper Lake, 
Proceed to Ronayne's Island, — Refreshments may be taken 

here, as the scenery will never cloy. 

Station 29, 

Hyde's Cottage, — Station 30. 

Derricanihy Cascade, 

If time permit, climb Cromagloun Mountain to 

Station 31, thence to 

Oak Island,— Or go from Hyde's Cottage to 

Station 32 ; thence to 

Newfoundland, 

Coleman's Eye, and 
Enter the river which flows through the defile that connects the 

Upper and Lower Lakes, 
Proceed to the Eagle's Nest, 

Station 33, 

Old Weir Bridge, 

Dinas Island, 

Briekeen Bridge, 

Lower Lake, 

Ross Castle, — And return to 

Killarney. 



Routes. 201 

A morning or evening visit should be paid to Violet 
Hill, the West Domain, and Aghadoe Ruins ; all 
which, lying in the vicinity of the town, may fill up 
those hours which are often loitered away in prepara- 
tions and arrangements for other excursions. If parties 
remain a fourth day, it should be spent in the scenery 
described from Station 1 to Station 6 inclusive. 



MINERALOGICAL APPENDIX, Ac. 



Common copper ore, copper pyrites, grey copper 
©re, malachite, brown iron stone, and grey and red 
cobalt ore, in crystallized germinations and incrusta- 
tions, are found at the old mines in Mucruss Peninsula, 
according to Weld. 

Petrified shells are found incrusted, adhering to the 
graywacke rocks, at the extremity of the peninsula on 
the side next to Turk Lake. They are of the species 
telenites and turbenites. 

Common galena, yellow copper ore, copper pyrites, 
brown and yellow blend, and grey copper ore, are 
found at the mines on Ross Island. 

Hones and whetstones are found on the ridge 
beyond the stream which issues from the lake, on the 
summit of Mangerton. 

Along two thirds of the Peninsula, Mucruss and 
Cahirnane Shores, to the river Denagh, Hen and 
Chicken Islands, Ross, Innisfallen, and Brown 
Islands, — the rock is limestone resting on graywacke, 



Miner alogical Appendix, tyc. 203 

generally of a pale blue colour, but of various tints in 
Ross and Mucruss Demesne. 

At the extremity of the Peninsula, the islands at the 
entrance of Glena Bay, and that side of the lake, — 
the stone is graywacke. 

On Turk Mountain is a quarry of graywacke slate. 

Immense veins of quartz intersect the mountains. 

A variety of utensils formed out of the grosser wood 
of the arbute are manufactured here, and may be 
purchased for a trifle. 

Kerry diamonds are frequently offered for sale in 
great quantities, and may be obtained for a small 
remuneration. 



BOTANICAL INDEX. 

The botanical notices usually inserted in topogra- 
phical Works, exhibiting a mere catalogue of unde- 
scribed plants, supply the tyro in the pursuit, or — to 
borrow the expression of an eminent professor still 
living — the botanophilist,\N\il& no means of investigating 
the specimens he may meet with on his excursions. 
The selection too is frequently conducted without 
sufficient discrimination — the names of several plants 
being introduced which are common to almost every 
soil — while those of others that occur but rarely are 
omitted altogether. In the following compendious 
herbal an attempt has been made to avoid these 
imperfections. Brief descriptions (extracted from 
Smith and Withering,) are annexed to the generic 
and specific designations of the plants; most of 
which have their habitats in the vicinity of Kil- 
larney exclusively, — or are at least seldom to be found 
wild in other parts of Ireland. 

TRIANDRIA. 
MONOGYNIA. 

Scirpus. Glum, undique imbricatae. 

1, fluitans. Caule folioso fiaccido na- 

tante* pedunculis alternis nudis, spicis solitariis 
terminalibus. 



Botanical Index. 205 

DIGYNIA. 

Festuca. Spicula oblonga, teretiuscula, glumis 
acunrinatis, 

1. vivipara. Panicula secunda coarc- 

tata, flosculis compresso-carinatis muticis calyceque 
subpubescentibus, culmo tetragono, foliis setaceis 
laevibus. 

TETRANDRIA. 

MONOGYNIA. 

Rubia. Cor. campanulata. Fructus baccatus. 

1. peregrina. Foliis subquatenris ellipticis 

supra nitidis laevibus, floribus quinquelidis. 

PENTANDRIA. 

MONOGYNIA. 

Lobelia. Caps. 2-sive 3-loc Cor. irregularis, 
fissa. Stigma simplex. 

1. Dortmaxxa. Foliis linearibus bilocu- 

laribus integerrimis, caule subnudo. 

Rhamnus. Bacca 3-loc. Cal. urceolatus, corollifer. 

1. catharticus. Spinis terminalibus, flo- 
ribus quadrifidis dioicis, foliis ovatis, caule erecto, 
bacca tetrasperma- 

HEXANDRIA. 

MONOGYNIA. 

Juncus. Cal. 6-phyllus. Caps, supera, 3-valvjs, 
polysperma. T 



206 Botanical Index. 

1. — — campestris (var. B.) Foliis plan is pilosis, 



spicis terminalibus sessilibus pedunculatisque, capsulis 
obtusis. 

2. trifidus. Culmo nudo, foliis floribusque 

tribus terminalibus. 

DECANDRIA. 

MONOGYNIA. 

Arbutus. Cor. ovata, basi pellucida. Bacca 5- 
locularis. 

]. . unedo. Caule arboreo, foliis glabris 

obtuse serratis, panicula terminali, baccis polyspermis. 

DIGYNIA. 

Saxifraga. Pet. 5. Cal. 5-partitus. Caps. 2-rost. 
polysperma. 

1. stellaris. Foliis serratis, caule nudo 

ramoso, petalis acutis, capsula supera. 

2. umbrosa. Foliis obovatis subretusis 

cartilagineo-crenatis, caule nudo paniculato, capsula 
supera. 

ICOSANDRIA. 
PENTAGYNIA. 
Ptrus. Cal. quinquefidus. Petala 5. Pomum infe- 
rurn, 2 ad 5 loculare. Semina bina. 

1. ■ aucuparia. Foliis pinnatis ; foliolis sequali- 

bus serratis glabriusculis, noribus coryrnbosis subtrigy- 
nis (formerly Sorbus aucuparia). 



Botanical Index. ' 207 

2. Aria. Foliis simplicibus ovatis incisis serra- 

tis lineatis subtus tomentosis, floribus corymbosis sub- 
digynis (formerly Crat.egus Aria). 

POLYGYNIA. 

Rurus. Cal. 5-fidus. Bacca supera, composita, aci- 
nis 1-spermis. 

1. id^us. Foliis quinato-pinnatis ternatisque 

subtus tomentosis, petiolis canaliculars, caule acuje- 
ato. 

2. saxatilis. Foliis ternatis glabriusculis, fla- 

gellis reptantibus herbaceis, panicula pauciflora. 

DIDYNAMIA, 
GYMNOSPERMIA. 

Mentha. Filamenta distantia, recta. Cor. subaequa- 
lis. 

1. : — Pulegium. Floribus verticillatis, foliis 

ovatis, caule prostrato, pedicellis calycib usque undique 
tomentosis : dentibus ciliatis. 

Betonica. Cor. labium superius planum, adscen- 
dens, tubo cylindraceo. Stam. longitudine faucis. 

1. officinalis. Spica interrupta, corol- 

larum lacinia labii intermedia emarginata. 

ANGIOSPERMIA. 

Bartsia. Caps. 2-loc. ISem. angulata. 

|,. . viscosa. Foliis senatis : superioribus 



208 Botanical Index. * 

alternis, floribus lateralibus distantibus, antheris hirsu- 
tis. 

MONADELPHIA. 

DEC ANURIA. 

Geranium. Monogyna. Fruct. 5-coccus, rostratus : 
rostra recurva, nuda. 

1. lucidum. Pedunculis bifloris, foliis 

quinquelobis rotundatis, calycibus transverse corruga- 
tis, capsulis multicarinatis. 

^ SYNGENESIA. 

POLYGAMTA MQtJALIS. 

Hieraclum. Recept. nudiusculum, punctaturn. Pap- 
pus simplex, sessilis. Cal. imbricatus, ovatus. 

1. sabaudum. Caule erecto multifloro, 

foliis ovato-lanceolatis dentato-serratis subamplex- 
icaulibus subtus scabris. 

Hedypnots. Recept. nudum, punctatum. Cal. im- 
bricatus, calyculatus. Pappus plumosus, sessilis, inae- 
qualis. 

1. Taraxaci. Scapis subunifloris, folii 

funcinato-dentatis, glabris, calyce piloso. 

POLYGAMIA SUPERFLUA. 

Gnaphalium. Recept. nudum. Pappus scaber aut 
plumosus. Cal. imbricatus ; squamis scariosis, coloratis, 
Flosc. radii subulati. 



Botanical Index. 209 

h margaritaceum. Herbaceum, fo- 

liis lineari-lanceolatis acuminatis alternis, caule su- 
perne ramoso, coryrabis fastigiatis. 
MONCECIA. 
TRIANDRIA. 
Carex. Masc. Amentum imbricatum. Cal. gluma 
1 . valvis. Cor. 0. 

Fcem. Ament. imbric. Cal. gluma 1-valv. Cor. 0. 
Stigm. 2. s. 3. Semen arillo ventricoso tectum. 

1. pulicaris. Spica simplici andrcgyna, 

pauciflora : superne mascuia, fructibus patentibus subm- 
latis, stigmatibus ternis. 

2. curta. Spiculis subsenis ellipticis remo- 

tiusculis nudis, glumis ovatis acutiuseulis membrana- 
cejs, arillo integro. 

3. distans. x aginis elongatis pedunculo 

subaequalibus, spicis oblongis remotissimis, glumis mu- 
cronilatis, culmo laevi. 

DICECIA. 
TRIANDRIA, 
Empetrum. Masc. Cal. 3-partit. Pet. 3. Stam. 
capillaria, 3 — 9. 

Fcem. Cal. 3-partit. Pet. 3. Stigm. 9. Bacca. snpera, 
9-sperma. 

1. nigrum. Caulibus procumbentibus. 

OCTANDRIA. 
Rhodiola. Masc. Cal, quadripartitus. Pet. 4. Nw- 
taria 4, emarginata. 



210 Botanical Index. 

Foem. Cal. quadripartitus. Pet. 4. Nect. 4. emargi- 
nata. Pistilla 4. Caps. 4, polyspermy. 

1. rosea. Caule simplicissimo, erecto. 

Foliis imbricatis sessilibus obovatis. Cyma terminali. 

MONADELPHIA. 

Juniperus. Masc. Cal. amenti squamae. Cor. nulla. 
Stam. 3. 

Foem. Cal. amenti squamas pauciores, demum car- 
nosee, coalitae in baccam trispermam. 

]; . communis. Foliis ternis patentibus 

mucronato-spinosis bacca longioribus. 

GYNANDRIA. 

DIANDRIA. 

Serapias. Nectarium ovatum, gibbum, labio ovato. 

1. latifolia. Foliis ovatis amplexicauli- 

bus, floribus cernuis, labio integerrimo acuminato peta- 
lis breviore. 

CRYPTOGAMIA. 

FILICES. 

Asplenium. Fructif. in lineolis sparsis. Invol. cos- 
tam versus dehiscens. 

1. adiantum nigrum. Fronde subdel- 

toidea alternation tripinnata : pinnulis lanceolatis acu- 
tiusculis inciso-serratis. 

2. trichomanes. Fronde pinnata : pinnis 



Botanical Index. * 211 

ovato-subrotundis crenatis, raclii subtiis complanata. 

Lycopodium. Caps, axillares, solitariae, eonrpressas. 

1. Selago. Foliis sparsis integerrimis 

lanceolatis muticis uniformibus octofariis, caule dicho- 
tomo erecto fastigiato. 

Osmunda. Sp. ramosa. Caps, pedicellate nuda», 
globosae, striates. 

1. regalis. Fronde bipinnata apice spiei- 

fera : pirmulis cordato-lanceolatis glabris. 

PoLYPODruM. Fructif. in punctis subrotundis, spar- 
sis. 

1, Dryopteris. Fronde tern ata bipin- 
nata patulo-deflexa ; laciniis obtusis subcrenatis, ra- 
dice filiformi. 

2. — — fragile. Primary wings spear- 
shaped ; leafits with a few irregular teeth towards the 
end : stem very slender and brittle. 

3. fragrans. Leafits wing-clSft, lobes 

very entire; the under surface entirely covered by 
clusters of capsules (Supposed to be a dwarf species 
of the Polypodium, now Aspidium — Thelypteris.) 

MUSCI. 

Trichomanes. Fructif. margini frondis insertae. 
Inv. urceolata, monophylla, exterius hiantia. 

1. Tunbridgense. Fronde alterrmtim 

bipinnatifida : laciniis involucroque serratis, fructiflca- 
tionibus solitariis margini axillarum pinnarum insiden- 
tibus. 



212 Botanical Index. 

Buxbaumta. Caps, obliqua, hinc gibba. Perist. exter. 
dentib. 16, breviss. : inter, membranaceum, plicatum. 

1. aphylla. Aphylla, pedicello elongato 

granulato ; basi bulboso piloso. 

2. foliosa. Acaulis, capsula subsessili, 

foliis lineari-lanceolatis. 

Hypnum. Caps, ovato-oblonga. Perist. exter. 
dentib. .16, basi dilatat : inter, membranac. dentat. 
Calyptr. membranacea, bine fissa. Pedicellus e 
perichaetio squamoso, laterali. 

1. polyanthos. Caule repente ramo- 

sissimo, foliis lanceolatis acuminatis enervibus imbri- 
catis erectis, operculo mucronulato. 

2. attenuatum. Caule ramosissimo, 

ramis incurvis, foliis ovatis nervosis imbricatis : sumrnis 
subsecundis, operculo conico. 

3. intricatum. Caule repente, foliis lan- 

ceolato-subulatis serratis mediotenus uninervibus, cap- 
sula ventricosa, operculo conico. 

Fontinalis. Caps, perichaetio squamosa obvoluta. 
Perist. exter. dentib. 16, basi dilatat. : inter, can- 
cellatum. 

3. antipyretica. Foliis complicato-cari- 

natis trifariis acutis, perichaetii foliolis obtusis, operculo 
subulate 

2. squamosa. Foliis imbricatis lanceolatis 

acuminatis concavis, perichaetii foliolis operculisque 
©btusis. 



Botanical Index. 213 

Polytrichum. Perist. exter. dentib. 32 — 64 : inter, 
membrana plana, indivisa. 

1. aloioes. Foliis lanceolatis obtusis 

rigidis apice serratis, capsula cylindracea obliqua, 
caule simplicissimo. 



HEPATICM. 

Jungermannia. Fruit-stalk naked : capsule 4- 
valved : seeds roundish. 

1. asplenioides. Leafits egg- 
shaped; somewhat fringed. Shoots 3 or 4 inches 
long; pale green, Leaves upper edge fringed with 
little teeth alternate. Capsules egg-shaped, purplish 
black, shining. Leaves pellucid, pale green without 
veins. 

2. bicuspidata. Fruit-stalks lateral: 

leafits with 2 teeth. Fruit-stalks 6 to 8 inches long. 
Capsules oblong, brown. 



Marchantfa. Male: Calyx salver-shaped : anthers 
numerous, imbedded in its disk. 

Fern. Calyx target-shaped, flowering on the under 
side : capsules opening at the top : seeds fixed to 
elastic fibres. 

1. hemisph^rica. Leaf scolloped . 

female calyx 5-cleft ; hemispherical. 



214 Botanical Index. 

As the investigation of the lichen tribe requires 
glasses of an extraordinary magnifying power, it has 
been considered superfluous to classify them here 
systematically. The principal kinds found about 
Killarney are the crenulatus, floridus, furcatus, 

GLOBIFERUS, HORIZONTALS, ISLANDICUS, PASCHALIS, 
PLICATUS, POLYRRHIZOS, PUBESCENS, PUSTULATUS, 
RESUPINATUS, and SCROBICULATUS. 



ETYMOLOGICAL INDEX 

OF 

IRISH JVAMES. 



AMID the variety of subjects which fall within the li- 
mits of antiquarian research, there is perhaps none better 
calculated to,develope the acumen, or detect the inabi- 
lity of the enquirer, than etymology. Unchecked by 
the severity of deduction imposed on the scientific spe- 
culatist, he is consequently obnoxious to all that delu- 
sion which arises equally from exuberance of imagina- 
tion, or weakness of judgment. Embarrassed further- 
more by a mass of conflicting evidence, from which 
the most discerning mind can but rarely educe demon- 
stration, it is by no means matter of surprise— that 
the majority of etymologists have either directed their 
enquiries towards the corroboration of some prevailing 
opinion, or substituted some ungrounded theory of their 
own. Hence persons have been found hardy enough 
to identify Russian with Latin, and to discover in the 
Chilinese a strong affinity to the ancient dialects of 
Greece and Rome ; who would, in fact, derive any 
one given language from any other given language, — 



216 Etymological Index of Irish Names. 

like a certain geometrician, who — having, through im- 
patience of temper, not sufficiently attended to the 
conditions of a proposed theorem — elicited, after much 
labour, a resulting quantity twice too great ; but when 
set right as to the course he should have pursued, re- 
plied, without the slightest discomposure, — " Oh I'll 
"prove it thai way now!' 

These observations, although true of the pursuit in 
general, are particularly applicable to what may be 
termed topographical etymology- Names of places 
(in many instances capriciously imposed,) usually ori- 
ginate in some local circumstance which may exist, — 
some striking event which may have occurred, — or 
some remarkable custom, or superstitious observance/ 
which may have prevailed in their vicinity. Of these 
sources, that of natural situation has been in all ages 
and countries the most prolific. — Sallust records the 
derivation of the word Syrtes — ■ " quibus nomen ex 
re inditum." Tacitus in his treatise on Germany, 
unconsciously anticipates the prevalence of the 
terminations brunnen, fold, and bach, which so 
frequently occur in the proper names of places in 
that country: — " colunt discreti ac diversi, utfons, 
" ut campus, ut nemus placuit." The Jrish town of 
Athboy, and the English town of Oxford (severally 
derivable from a Celtic and a Saxon origin), equally 
import *' the ford of oxen." 

These few remarks, connected with a subject which 



Etymological Index of Irish Names. 217 

would allow ample scope for protracted discussion, are 
intended as preliminary to the following descriptive 
catalogue, in which the simplest local interpretations 
have been adopted. The writer offers them 
with diffidence ; arrogating, however, that degree 
of merit, which may attach to minute research and 
patient investigation. 



Aghadoe. <\0b aodh, and bo;g doigh — both 
signifying " fire" — according to Vallancey, who 
adds : — " I think there must have formerly been 
" here, either a fire-tower or an altar, dedicated 
" to the fire of fires— the Sun." According to 
Smith it was called — " Antiently Aghaboe, i. e. 
"campus bovis" the field of the ox— acab achadk 
signifying " field." Thus the name of Aghaboe, 
in the Queen's County, is stated to have been 
originally Aghadoe : aodh is spelt by Vallancey — 
agh. 

Aghahunnig. <vc<xb achadh, " field," and 
un;c unich, " bustle." The field of bustle, or 
strife. 

Brickeen. b;i;c;n bricin? " troutliug." Thus 
the name of Balbriggan, in the County of Dublin 
(unless derived from Bregia, the ancient name of 

* The Gaelic c is always pronounced like #• 
U 



218 Etymological Index of Irish Names. 

the district in which it stands), probably means 
" Trout-Town ;" as Belscaddan, in its neigh- 
bourhood, does — " Herring-Town." 

Cahirnane. c<xj\n earn, " mass" (as of stones 
or rocks), and the augmentative <xn an, which is 
also sometimes a diminutive. 

Camillan. cam cam, "crooked," <vjtl aill, 
" cliff," and <xn an (for which see Cahirnane). 

Carrountoohil. compart corran, " reaping- 
-hook," and tuatal tuathal, "awkward." Thus 
a promontory at Larne, in the County of Antrim, 
is called the Curran from its form. 

Castlelough. "castle," andloc loch, " lake." 

Catan. Said to mean — " that which cannot get 
" away." 

Cloghereen. cloca/i clochar, " steeple" 
(properly " congregation"), and the diminutive jn 
in. 

Cromagloun. Cjidro crom, " bending," and 
gteo.5 gleann, " valley." The slope to the valley. 

Denagh. berzmc deunach, " sad." 

Derricanihy. ba;/t dair, " oak," cean 
ceann " head," <*g<x;b aghaidh, " front." 

Derricarnagh. b<v//i dair, " oak," c<Xf\n 
cam, "heap," <\.cab achadh, "field." 

Din as. b;a din, " pleasant," and pjf mi€, 
" island " (or <xf as, " cascade "). 



Etymological Index of Irish Names. 219 

Dunlow. ban dun, " fortress," and lo lo, 
" water.' 1 

Flesk. ):le<x^3 fleas g, "moisture:" in old 
Irish — "water." 

Glena. gleanac gleannach, the adjective of 
glean gleann, "valley." 

Glennacopul. glean gleann, "valley," na 
na, " of the,'' and coputl capull, "horse:" 
" probably," according to Weld, " from the ex- 
" cellence of its pastures." 

Green agh. gjvjan grian, " sun," and acab 
achadh, " field." 

Innisfallen. jnjp inis, " island," and pxllan 
fallan, "beauty." Or perhaps jn)f j:a le;n 
inisfa lein, " island on the Lein," or Lower Lake 
of Killarney. 

Irrelagh. ajji j\q loc air re lock, " on the 
" lake." 

Iveragh. fi ibh, " tribe," j<\p. iar, " west," 
and acab achadh, " field." The tribe of the 
western field. 

Kenmare. ceaii ceann, " head," and m^f. 
muir, " sea/' 

Killarney. c;ll cill, " church, and a/inaj j 
arnaigh, " prayer" (or <X/ine ame, "sloe"). Or, 
it may have been originally denominated from the 
name of some unrecorded saint. 



220 Etymological Index of Irish Na?nes. 

Lein. ifi linn, "pool:" applied also to lakes 

and seas. Lough Lein is the name of the Lower 

Lake of Killarney. Lein is pronounced Loun 

(hence the river Loun,) according to the usage 

of Munster : thus, ceann is pronounced ciounn. 

Lisnavageen. IjOf lios, « court,"— (thus Ma- 

lahide Castle, County of Dublin, like many other 

ancient baronial residences, is still called The 

Courts— rxx ?ia, "of the," maj magh, "plain," 

and the diminutive jn in. The court of the 

small plain. i 

Mangerton. roojn moin, « mountain," jajtS 
garbh, « rough," and ton tan, " district." 

M'Gillicuddy's Reeks. m <xc mac, "son," 
S;olla giolla, « page," and Coba Coda, a pro- 
per name — form M'Gillicuddy : — the son of 
Cuddy's page. i?ee£s, from ji;e;^ ri«g, « flame," 
— " to denote," according to the Rev. Mr. Jones, 
tf the pyramidical and flame-like appearance of 
" their summits." 

Mucruss. Stated, by the Rev. Mr. Jones, to 
mean " the mountain of the dark water, or the 
" gloomy mountain." 

Reen. r j<xr> rian, "sea." Hence Been Point 
means Sea Point. ;i;an rian also means " pointy 
or " head-land ;" and hence the English word may 
perhaps be considered a translation of the Irish one. 



Etymological Index of Irish Names. 221 

Ross. poy ros, " pleasant/' It also means 
"a place near the water ;" which, in this instance, 
would be an appropriate interpretation. 

Sronnabuie. fjion sron, "nose," n<x na, 
" of the," and bo 60, " cow." 

Tomies. com torn, " grove," and cy as, "cas- 
" cade." 

Tullig. calUj tullagh, " hill," and l;j lig, 
"stone." 

Turk, to/ic tore, "boar." 



THE END. 



DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDEB 

FOR PLACING THE CUTS. 

PLATES. 



NO. TO FACE 

1 . View of the Town of Killarney from Aghadoe Road Title. 

2. View of the Lower Lake, <fec. from Danish Fort . . Page 40 

3. The Lower Lake from Flesk Road 51 

4. The Middle Lake from Brickeen Island . . . . 76 

5. The Upper Lake from Cromagloun . . '.. . . 178 

6. Ross Castle ^ 

7. South-West View of Mucruss Abbey . . f 

8. Exterior of Mucruss Abbey .. .. .. r 

9. Cloister of Mucruss Abbey 3 

VIGNETTES. 

Devil's Punch-Bowl 91 

Eagle's Nest 182 

MAPS. 

Map of Kerry .. 5 

Map of the Lakes of Killarney 191 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 

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